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The ‘trends’ that shape the watch industry

中文
January 2007


Hermes


When people speak of ‘trends’, we tend to think of new models, new designs, fashion, and the products… But, ‘trends’, or ‘modes’, do not only exist in the shapes and in the products placed on the market. Both upstream and downstream of the product, the industry itself, from production to distribution, is shaped by basic ‘trends’, by fashions and fads, all of which transform the timekeeping landscape, a little bit at a time.

With this in mind, Europa Star in print presents this Special Trends section. While it does not claim to encompass all the trends, it aims, however, to establish a few reference points for the future.

Trend towards exceptional pieces
Increasing numbers of watchmakers are seeking to occupy ‘luxury niches’ by proposing very small quantities of hyper-sophisticated, custom-designed, and exceptional pieces to collectors and other watch aficionados. We present a few recent examples of this ever-growing ‘trend’.

Trend towards new movements
The decision taken by ETA in 2002 (but delayed to 2010 by the Swiss Commission on Competition) to no longer deliver mechanical movements gave a boost to the industry to start creating movements. Today, ETA ‘clones’ are flourishing and a number of firms specializing in haut de gamme calibres are spreading their wings. We take a look at the state of mechanical movement production in Switzerland.

Trend towards new manufactures
The realization by brands on how dependent they can be on a single supplier also accelerated the trend towards the verticalization of production. More and more watch companies are announcing their intention to gradually transform themselves into more or less ‘complete’ manufactures. It is a long and perilous journey.

Trend towards the integration of distribution
The traditional channel of distribution, which finally ends at the retailer after passing through the successive hands of exporters, agents, wholesalers, and distributors, is subject to strong strains. On many markets, independent agents and other intermediaries seem to be in danger of extinction because the basic trend is for the brands to take distribution in-house, to the greatest extent possible.

A gallery of trendy watches
A look at the major trends in the watch industry would not be complete without a visual presentation of the many diverse trends that illustrate the so-called fashion watches, the independent brands, and the niche brands. It involves a veritable laboratory of forms, colours, and functions.


Photo by Dominique Fleury, 1st prize of The 2002 La Montre Hermès Photography Prize.


Source: Europa Star December-January 2007 Magazine Issue