he shape of the watch is striking. Its imposing diameter, the low relief engravings that embellish the dial and the strongly domed crystal all call to mind the shape of a pincushion – the sewing accessory that both fascinated and inspired Arnaud Chastaingt.

Measuring 55 millimetres across, with a steeply domed sapphire crystal, this watch makes a bold statement! That’s almost the diameter a pocket watch would have, strapped to the wrist. And yet these are most definitely wristwatches.

The Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles collection is signed by Chanel. The signature is both metaphorical and physical. The brand name in yellow gold, delicately placed at the edge of the glass, is all but invisible; and yet this extreme discretion takes nothing away from the identity of the five timepieces in the collection. Each dial features an object that is so strongly identified with the Maison that there’s no need to spell it out. The iconic handbag, the chain and the byzantine cross so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, the camellia motif, the iconic little black jacket and a sewing pattern – all reproduced in stunning realism.

During our interview Arnaud Chastaingt explained his fascination with this working tool, whose form perfectly follows its function. It can be observed on the wrists of couturiers and couturières, like a roughly fashioned jewel embellished with pins. This collection builds a bridge between the couture workshops in the Rue Cambon and Chanel’s watchmaking and jewellery ateliers. The connection was there all along, just waiting for someone to notice it.

Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio.

Europa Star: Why did you choose the pincushion as a source of inspiration for this collection?

Arnaud Chastaingt: I’ve always been fascinated by objects whose architecture comes from a functional need. The design of the pincushion comes from the need to make it easier for tailors and couturiers to use the pins and needles they require to do their job. Beyond its functional value, I’ve always loved its bold style. It takes possession of the wrist with authority, but the pins stuck into the cushion also make it highly decorative. I see it as a piece of functional jewellery.

The little black jacket, the chains, the lace camellia, the embroidery, the iconic quilted bag – how did you choose these five elements?

The first stage was to transpose a pincushion into a watch. With this extremely generous 55 mm diameter at my disposal, I wanted to tell the stories that were key to understanding Chanel. These five creations illustrate five branches of fashion: leatherwork, lace, embroidery, the jewellers who create their fabulous necklaces and other items, and obviously couture.

The watch that most resembles a pincushion is the Embroidery Motif. What was your intention?

Interestingly, this is the most abstract model, whereas the others are more narrative. My source of inspiration was embroidery. I wanted to create the impression of a completely black surface, like an expanse of dark fabric, covered in sequins – which in this case are diamonds. Here, in order to create the illusion of embroidered sequins, we used the snow-setting technique. I then asked our artisans to blacken all the gold beads to represent the black fabric. In this project, jewellery and watchmaking savoir-faire pay tribute to the exceptional skills of the fashion industry.

The effect of the motifs is impressive. How, for example, did you create the illusion that the miniature chain on the Pearls Motif watch is really threaded through with leather?

The biggest challenge for this piece was indeed the braided chain. I had the great honour to work with some remarkable artisans. They started out with a sheet of gold, which was then engraved to produce the chain. The areas that look like leather were created with miniature painting, which perfectly replicates its smooth suppleness.

For the Lace Motif watch with camellias, did you take inspiration from an existing fabric?

I started by looking at some lace created by our fashion department, and I tried to understand how it was constructed before I made my own interpretation. I redrew everything. In my camellia design I wanted to find a composition, a balance, that I wouldn’t have been able to create if I’d simply taken an existing motif.

The little black jacket in the Tweed Motif watch is astonishingly realistic. How did you manage to create the tweed effect without using actual fabric?

The tweed was complex to recreate. I wanted a degree of realism, and tweed as a material is difficult to pin down. It’s both uniform and irregular; it has a very rigid design, but it’s also random. Tweed has a kind of magic. If you try to capture its spirit, you can very quickly fall into the trap of creating something that’s too orderly, too stiff. I’m not going to reveal all the secrets of its manufacture, but I’m very happy with the result.

Each piece in the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles embodies the Chanel spirit. A signature is superfluous. Is that why the house signature on the dial is so hard to see?

The Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles watch does bear the Chanel signature – but not on the dial. For me, discretion was a must, as I wanted to give pride of place to the designs. There’s no need for an omnipresent signature to understand where this watch comes from. It says “Chanel” at first glance. I opted for a yellow gold transfer placed under the watch crystal, which blends into the design without distracting from it. The signature becomes discreetly visible depending on the angle of the light and the position of the watch.

A diameter of 55 mm is practically a pocket watch. How do you translate a voluminous 3-dimensional object into a watch, and did you think about allowing it to be worn in different ways?

My intention was above all to translate the visual impact of a pincushion on a wrist. I designed this watch with a single focus: style. I was obsessed with creating a bold volume that would cover the wrist entirely. In watchmaking, the diameter of a watch is often constrained by ergonomic considerations. But that was not something I took into consideration this time. The outsized measurements of the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles watch do not affect its comfort in wear. I generally like to vary the way a watch can be worn, but this time the wrist was clearly the point, and I didn’t want to dilute my inspiration. I simply borrowed the architecture of the classic pincushion. I insisted that the strap should be attached relatively low on the back of the watch, so that it would fit all wrist sizes.

Speaking of the strap, you chose to make it from fabric. Is this a reference to the world of couture?

Among all the iconic fabrics of the Maison, there’s one that Chanel is particularly fond of: grosgrain. I love the elegance of its texture, its weave. This collection was entirely inspired by the world of couture, and I wanted to use this material to make a strap.

The two hands for the hours and minutes were necessary to make these objects into watches, but did you consider leaving them off, and showing the time in a different way? The time they tell is perhaps more a time of beauty, rather than real time.

No, I didn’t think about removing them, I even designed them. Line for line, they are reproductions of sewing needles. They have the exact same architecture, they’re lengthened and they’re rounded. They are very thin, so they don’t detract from the designs on the dial. They’re there, without being there. The eye is drawn first to the composition, and only afterwards does it discover the time. They indicate ‘couture time’, and only Chanel knows the secret!

You drew upon several watchmaking skills: gem-setting, engraving, lacquer, grand feu enamel. Was this a way to pay tribute to these artistic crafts?

At Chanel, the artistic crafts and their savoir-faire are omnipresent and highly inspiring. For me, the Mademoiselle Privé collection represents an infinite field for creative expression. It’s a way for the horological arts to pay tribute to the arts of fashion. I love that idea!

What was the biggest challenge you had to overcome in the creation of this collection?

Managing my impatience, as always! (laughs) But seriously, I’d say that the complexity of the dials of these watches was a challenge. In the end, whether it’s Haute Couture or Haute Horlogerie, one word is different, but the magic is the same.

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Lace Motif watch Limited to 20 pieces. Case in 18K yellow gold set with 211 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 2.79 carats) and titanium with black coating. 18K yellow gold caseback, 18K yellow gold “Grand Feu” enamel dial with lace motif in black decal, pearls and 5 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.05 carat). Encircled by 120 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.71 carat) and 18K yellow gold miniature beads. Produced by LES CADRANIERS DE GENEVE, owned by FP Journe. 18K yellow gold hands set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond in the centre ( 0.01 carat). 18K yellow gold crown set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.03 carat). Black matte grosgrain strap and buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.27 carat). High-precision quartz movement. Function: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 metres. Diameter: 55 mm. Diamonds: 392 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 3.87 carats).

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Tweed Motif watch Limited to 20 pieces. Case in 18K yellow gold set with 211 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 2.79 carats) and titanium with black coating. 18K yellow gold caseback. Black-lacquered dial decorated with a black tweed-effect jacket pattern, trimmed with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.96 carat), 4 pearl-buttons and 18K yellow gold hand-sculpted miniature tools set with 1 diamond ( 0.01 carat). Encircled by 120 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.71 carat) and a 18K yellow gold miniature chain. 18K yellow gold hands set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond in the centre ( 0.01 carat). Produced by LES CADRANIERS DE GENEVE, owned by FP Journe. 18K yellow gold crown set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.03 carat). Black matte grosgrain strap and 18K yellow gold buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.27 carat). High-precision quartz movement. Function: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 metres. Diameter: 55 mm. Diamonds: 480 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 4.78 carats).

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Quilted Motif watch Limited to 20 pieces. Case in 18K yellow gold set with 211 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 2.79 carats) and titanium with black coating. 18K yellow gold caseback. 18K yellow gold dial decorated with black mother-of-pearl marquetry, engraved with a quilted effect and trimmed with 18K yellow gold thread. 18K yellow gold chains decorated with 9 brilliant-cut diamond charms ( 0.27 carat). 5 clasps set with baguette-cut diamonds ( 0.30 carat). Encircled by 120 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.71 carat) and 18K yellow gold miniature beads. 18K yellow gold hands set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond in the centre ( 0.01 carat). 18K yellow gold crown set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.03 carat). Black matte grosgrain bracelet and buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.27 carat). High-precision quartz movement. Function: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 metres. Diameter: 55 mm. Diamonds: 396 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 4.08 carats) and 5 baguette-cut diamonds ( 0.30 carat).

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Pearls Motif watch Limited to 20 pieces. Case in 18K yellow gold set with 211 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 2.79 carats) and titanium with black coating. 18K yellow gold caseback. Black tweed-effect dial decorated with 18K yellow gold sculpted jewellery: 1 long necklace with pearls and 5 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.07 carat), 1 black-lacquered long necklace, 2 Byzantine brooches set with onyx and 2 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.20 carat). Encircled by 120 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.71 carat) and 18K yellow gold miniature beads. 18K yellow gold hands set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond in the centre ( 0.01 carat). 18K yellow gold crown set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.03 carat). Black matte grosgrain strap and buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.27 carat). High-precision quartz movement. Function: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 metres. Diameter: 55 mm. Diamonds: 394 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 4.08 carats).

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles Embroidery Motif watch Limited to 20 pieces. Case in 18K yellow gold set with 211 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 2.79 carats) and titanium with black coating. 18K yellow gold caseback. 18K white gold dial with black coating set with 650 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 9.83 carats). Encircled by 18K yellow gold miniature beads. 18K yellow gold hands set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond in the centre ( 0.01 carat). 18K yellow gold crown set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.03 carat). Black matte grosgrain strap and buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 0.27 carat). High-precision quartz movement. Function: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 metres. Diameter: 55 mm. Diamonds: 917 brilliant-cut diamonds ( 12.93 carats).