uring the early 1950s, Breguet, already renowned for its aviation products, learned that the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting specific technical requirements: a black dial with luminescent numerals, luminescent hands, a high-quality movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating bezel and a flyback function, to name only the most important features.

The Air Ministry named the future product “Type XX”. Several companies competed and secured contracts, resulting in multiple brands producing Type XXs. Meanwhile, the brands chosen for public contracts could also sell the same product to private clients, leading to the creation of both military and civilian Type XXs.

The brands chosen for public contracts could also sell the same product to private clients, leading to the creation of both military and civilian Type XXs.

A return to roots

Breguet’s 1952 prototypes received approval from the Service Technique Aéronautique in 1953. In 1954, the French Air Force ordered 1,100 military Type 20s, which were delivered between 1955 and 1959. Another prestigious customer, the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV) for elite French test pilots, ordered 80 timepieces, which were delivered in 1956 and 1957. The following year, the French Navy commissioned 500 timepieces for the pilots and sailors of its airborne division, the Aéronautique Navale.

The Type XX’s reputation quickly extended beyond the military, piquing the interest of civil aviation professionals and chronograph enthusiasts who also wished to own a Breguet Type XX. By 1970, more than 2,000 “civilian” Type XX models had been sold. Several subsequent generations of the model emerged over the decades, culminating in the 2004 debut of the Type XXI and the 2010 launch of the impressive Type XXII, which incorporated high-frequency technology and silicon.

It was only fitting that Breguet should draw upon its rich heritage when creating the new Type XX. Four years of preparation preceded the unveiling of the latest generation of iconic Type XX watches, now available in two versions to cater to all tastes: one inspired by military designs and the other reflecting the finest civilian models.

It was only fitting that Breguet should draw upon its rich heritage when creating the new Type XX.

Type 20 – Chronographe 2057: military heritage

This timepiece draws inspiration from the 1,100 watches delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, which were uniquely named Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike the other models, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, which were labelled Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black galvanic-treated dial has been modernised while remaining true to the identity of the Type 20. The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent, featuring the same mint green shade as the hands. The 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second subdial at 9 o’clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Breguet Type 20 - Chronographe 2057 - military version

Case: steel Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.1 mm Dial: black Movement: self-winding Functions: chronograph, “flyback”, date, small seconds, 30-minute totaliser Balance-spring: flat, in silicon Escapement: inverted in- line lever escapement with silicon horns Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m) Calibre: 7281 Frequency: 5 Hz Power reserve: 60 hours Components: 339 Strap: set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, 1 in NATO fabric

The 42mm steel case is equipped with a non-engraved, fluted, bidirectional bezel, reminiscent of those found on models delivered to military air forces in the past. The original pear-shaped crown is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction and 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher activates the chronograph, while the one at 4 o’clock controls the flyback function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter resets the chronograph and the minute totaliser.

Type XX – Chronographe 2067: the civilian line

This second timepiece with its visibly adventurous spirit is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX models from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a 1957 model bearing the individual number 2988. It differs from the 2057 in several ways. Firstly, its display: the 15-minute totaliser is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock, and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. As in the military-inspired version, the totaliser is sized differently to enhance both the dynamism and the legibility of the dial.

Breguet Type XX - Chronographe 2067 – civilian version

Case: steel Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 14.1 mm Dial: black Movement: self-winding Functions: chronograph, “flyback”, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour totalisers Balance-spring: flat, in silicon Escapement: inverted in- line lever escapement with silicon horns Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m) Calibre: 728 Frequency: 5 Hz Power reserve: 60 hours Components: 350 Strap: set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, 1 in NATO fabric

The Arabic numerals, hands, and triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown allows for setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction and 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph instantaneously, based on the flyback principle.

Precision and durability: the new calibre 728

Four years of development at the Breguet manufacture resulted in the new self-winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version, and its military variant, Calibre 7281. Combining resilience and innovation, this movement is protected by multiple patents. It encompasses all the features of a modern chronograph, such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency, and an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Alongside these elements, it also benefits from the latest technical breakthroughs in chronometry (precision timing).

The balance-spring, escape wheel and pallet-lever horns are crafted from silicon. Besides being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is impervious to magnetic fields, enhancing the timepiece’s accuracy. Furthermore, this self-winding chronograph boasts a 60-hour power reserve. Both models come equipped with a flyback function, a valuable tool for pilots, as it consolidates the previously required three operations into just one.

Four years of development at the Breguet manufacture resulted in the new self-winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version, and its military variant, Calibre 7281.

These state-of-the-art activation and zero-resetting systems are designed for crisp, precise use. Regardless of the function performed, the pressure exerted on the pushers remains even and balanced. The vertical clutch mechanism is similarly employed for its activation accuracy, ensuring the chronograph hand starts instantaneously without any initial jolts. To bolster the movement’s robustness and guarantee precision even in the event of impacts, a cross-through bridge was selected to secure the balance in place.

Optimally sized to occupy the maximum available space within the movement, the barrel features a spring made of high-energy-density material, providing a longer power reserve.

Finally, the new movement’s aesthetic appeal is another asset, as considerable effort has been devoted to its decoration. In addition to the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, circular-graining and other visible embellishments on the components, Breguet has applied a black DLC treatment to the column wheel, enhancing visual contrast while improving its tribological properties. The sapphire crystal case back offers an opportunity to admire the movement’s details, including its blackened oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft wing, engraved with the Breguet logo.

Price: CHF 17,500

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