ike Jean-Jacques Fiechter – co-CEO of Blancpain from 1950 until 1980 and the man who oversaw the creation of the Fifty Fathoms in 1953 – Marc A. Hayek spends as much time exploring the ocean depths as he does on dry land in the Vallée de Joux.

In 2002 he took the helm of Blancpain and, unsurprisingly given his interest in diving, one of his first projects was to relaunch the Fifty Fathoms.

The first contemporary Fifty Fathoms was released for the 50th anniversary in 2003 as three series of 50 pieces each. The Fifty Fathoms Automatic ref. 5015 1130 52A from 2007 marked another important stage in the evolution of the collection, introducing a new design and a new calibre.

The Fifty Fathoms of 1953 and the Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5015 1130 52A (2007)

“A reinvention, not a replacement”

The first release for the Fifty Fathoms’ 70th anniversary in 2023, the 42mm Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1, reprises the features of the 1953 original and is fitted with a 100% recycled and recyclable black NATO strap.

It was presented as three series of 70 watches, each dedicated to a world region – EMEA, Asia-Pacific, Americas – with a number from I to III on the dial. Blancpain has also created a special edition of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 in blue for Only Watch 2023.

Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1

The second anniversary model, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2 – Tech Gombessa, is the first dive watch to measure immersion times of up to three hours and is protected by a patent. Made from grade 23 titanium, it is the first in a new line in Blancpain’s dive watch collection.

For Marc A. Hayek, it has an essential role to play in building the future of the Fifty Fathoms: “More important perhaps than the celebration itself are the innovations that come with this model, which we developed jointly with French marine biologist and diver Laurent Ballesta. It’s very much in line with the thinking behind the original Fifty Fathoms from 1953 in that it fulfils a genuine need.”

Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2 – Tech Gombessa

Diving has evolved considerably over the last seven decades, notably with the introduction of rebreathers as an alternative to conventional scuba tanks. A rebreather enables a diver to stay underwater for much longer and, because it doesn’t produce bubbles, allows closer interaction with marine life. One of the main applications of this technology is in marine scientific research.

“Working with Laurent Ballesta, we came up with the idea of a modern watch that was engineered for this type of diving,” says Marc A. Hayek. “The Tech Gombessa isn’t a replacement for the classic Fifty Fathoms: it starts a new line in the Fifty Fathoms collection.”

The brand’s President and CEO does not hesitate to draw on his own extensive diving experience to contribute to developments within the collection. Here’s an example. “Most people think orange is the most visible colour underwater but I noticed that natural white stands out more at greater depth. This is something you can only know through practice and experience.”

Bronze completes the lineup

The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary – Act 3 is inspired by the MIL-SPEC model which was adopted by the main armed forces of the period. This reinterpretation, a limited edition of 555 pieces in 9K Bronze Gold, is distinguished by a moisture indicator and stays faithful to the aesthetic and 41.30mm diameter of the original.

The Fifty Fathoms was instrumental in establishing the fundamentals of diving safety and was adopted by the armed forces of France, Germany, the United States and Norway (among others) to equip their combat swimmers in the 1950s.

Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3

That same decade, Jean-Jacques Fiechter developed a moisture indicator. This additional safety feature signalled that the watch had not been damaged by another diver on a previous mission (if seepage had occurred, the indicator changed colour).

Appearing on the dial of the MIL-SPEC watches in 1957 – some of whose variants are among the rarest and most sought-after timepieces by collectors – this moisture indicator was part of the specifications required by the US Navy, which considered this the only model to meet all the strict criteria laid down for its underwater missions. The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 pays tribute to that watch.

Environmental awareness

Behind this series of models is an awareness of an endangered ecosystem. Through the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, the manufacture has made the preservation of the ocean and its inhabitants an important line of action and communication. Marc A. Hayek has witnessed first-hand the decline of ocean ecosystems and has made the brand, and its marine heritage, a personal and professional priority.

“In 2003 we initiated a partnership with PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors), following which we launched Blancpain Ocean Commitment, initially focusing on whale shark preservation.” His first encounter with a whale shark, in Thailand, is, he says, “engraved on my memory.”

“One of the most effective forms of action is to show how beautiful the marine environment is and the vital role it plays for life on Earth. Not everyone realises that the ocean captures more carbon than forests. I’ve seen dive sites deteriorate over the years, in the Maldives, for example. Reefs that were beautiful in the 1990s are now lifeless and bleached, the result of ocean acidification due to global warming. With the right action, there is a chance this environment can be restored, but it’s equally possible that it can never be saved.”

A unique edition of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 for Only Watch 2023

A founding partner of the Pristine Seas expeditions, Blancpain financed 14 major scientific expeditions between 2011 and 2016, twelve of which led to the creation of marine protected areas equal to 4.7 million square kilometres.

Still, it’s one thing to protect these areas on paper and another to keep them under effective surveillance. Marc A. Hayek explains how “in the Philippines, local committees enforce protection measures. They see for themselves how cutting carbon emissions and preserving species is in their interest, because of the benefits to their environment.” Luxury has a role to play here. And the 70-year-old Fifty Fathoms embodies an exemplary form of sustainability – as an object and through the message it conveys.