ess is more! The famous adage of minimalist architects and designers who hold purity as a cardinal value would suit Carl F. Bucherer well. Not that the Lucerne-based watchmaker strives to make its creations devoid of all frills. But on the occasion of its 135th anniversary – an age of reason if ever there was one – the brand unveiled its new strategy.

The strategy can be summed up as follows: fewer watches, more technology for enhanced prestige, fewer points of sale and a more highly committed clients relationship to focus on passionate customers. This positioning is more generally in line with the Swiss watchmaking industry, which tends to prioritise its top-of-the-range expertise.

Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral in 18K white gold

The DNA: peripheral technology

That was the main message of the brand, as it held its “Road Show” this year around the world, from Munich to Hong Kong, New York, Dubai, Shanghai and Tokyo to present its new collections – a reorientation of its ambitions it has dubbed “Exploring Time”. It’s a way of blending different eras, highlighting both the vintage heritage of the brand, whose roots date back to 1888, and bold modern choices. “Today we’re embracing important changes for Carl F. Bucherer,” explains Chief Technology Officer Samir Merdanovic. “We are repositioning ourselves by adopting new high-end materials and technologies for our future collections, focusing on our DNA, peripheral technology.”

To implement this strategy, the brand has decided to refocus its collection on three watch families: Manero, Patravi and Heritage. The first – for instance, the Manero Peripheral with its refined dial and brushed surfaces – is conceived as an urban companion, capable of accompanying you to the office as well as to gala evening. As for the Patravi ScubaTec, it is a robust chronograph designed for diving and underwater exploration (up to 50 bar). The third line, as its name suggests, carries the brand’s heritage. The Heritage BiCompax Hometown edition, which pays tribute to various world cities, is a fine example.

Heritage BiCompax Hometown Collection

“We’re going to reduce our catalogue in order to focus on these product families,” explains Renato Bonina, Chief Sales Officer. The brand’s refocusing does not stop at limiting the number of models. The new strategy also envisages a reduction in the number of sales outlets. Although Carl F. Bucherer is backed by Bucherer, one of the world’s largest watch retailers – and could benefit from its growing network – it has decided to go in the opposite direction: the brand plans to halve the number of outlets. This is part of a drive to better control its distribution flows, in order to strengthen its customer relationships.

This strategy should enable the manufacture to avoid spreading itself too thinly by concentrating on growth markets such as Europe, the United States, the Middle East and Asia, with China and Japan at the forefront. “We want to refocus on our strengths, which are technical innovation and the manufacture of in-house movements,” explains Renato Bonina, referring to the peripheral technology for which Carl F. Bucherer is renowned in the watch industry, and for which the company holds several patents.

Manero Peripheral

The principle of the innovation is to shift the oscillating weight to the periphery to provide a clear view of the movement. This system also makes the watch flatter, lighter and more aesthetically pleasing, revealing the entire movement and its delicate intricacies.

A diversity of new colours

By reducing the number of models, Carl F. Bucherer intends to optimise its overall annual production capacity. This choice should enable watchmakers to focus their attention on assembling grand complications and creating more one-off pieces. To reflect this orientation, earlier this year the manufacture revealed one of its most complex and precious timepieces: the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise.

This “Rainbow Watch” is illuminated by 40 baguette-cut gemstones, including tsavorites, sapphires and rubies that make up a multicolored bezel. Each stone is selected to achieve an imperceptible transition from the colour of its neighbour. Fitted with an 18-karat pink gold case, the watch features a suspended tourbillon cage that seems to float in the air. The complexity of this work, coupled with the rarity of the stones, makes this an ultra-limited edition of 18 pieces.

Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary - unique pieces

To coincide with this new direction, several of the brand’s classics are being reissued in new colours. For instance, the Patravi ScubaTec is now available in a “Verde” version. As part of the brand’s support for the Manta Trust, an organisation dedicated to the protection of manta rays, the watch features a rubber strap with a recycled PET insert, and is water-resistant to 50 bar. Part of the proceeds will be donated to fund a scientific expedition to Ecuador. Another example of this strategy: the Manero Central Counter has also been revamped with four colours inspired by nature. Finally, to complete the celebration of the brand’s 135th anniversary, three unique models of the Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary, one of the company’s most technically accomplished timepieces, are being unveiled. Each model features a unique colour (blue, green or violet) with matching oscillating weights visible through the casebacks. A clear opportunity to take stock of the relevance of this strategic reorientation towards ultra-exclusivity!

Patravi ScubaTec Verde

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