hen he first took over as head of watchmaking for Montblanc, Laurent Lecamp’s immediate priorities were to “go back to our roots” and “get a bird’s eye view”. Many incoming executives would choose to do the same, except that, in this case, those phrases could be taken literally!

One of the first things he did after joining the company was to head off, camera around his neck, for the roof of Western Europe, to look out across the six glacial valleys of the Mont Blanc Massif, the inspiration for the Hamburg firm’s logo since the early 20^th century.

The company may have started out making high-end pens, but its name already hinted at a destiny that would take it closer to the watchmaking ecosystem – and not just geographically (Mont Blanc is a short distance from Geneva with its rich watchmaking heritage).

The height of Mont Blanc was measured for the first time by Genevan astronomer and watchmaker Nicolas Fatio in the 17^th century (when the peak was known as Montagne Maudite or Cursed Mountain, the Alps being seen as the impregnable fortress of hostile natural forces), from an observation post in the Château de Duillier. He was also the first to advocate the use of rubies to reduce friction in watch movements.

It’s also worth noting that mountaineering pioneer Horace Bénédict de Saussure, among the first to conquer the summit a century after Fatio’s calculations, was one of the founders of the Société des Arts, which oversaw the creation of the Geneva Watchmaking School – an educational institution essential for the vitality of Swiss watchmaking – which celebrates its bicentenary in 2024.

Limited edition presentation box with granite base and plexiglas cover decorated with a relief depiction of the Mont-Blanc massif, housing three Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date models. The caseback of each watch features a laser engraving in colour, representing a different view of Mont Blanc: the Aiguille du Moine (blue version), Les Drus (green), and Les Grandes Jorasses (grey).

Was that what Laurent Lecamp was thinking as he rode the little Montenvers cogwheel train to the Mer de Glace? His main objective was to chart new paths for the brand, which was caught between several potential directions: Haute Horlogerie, Minerva heritage, the sport-chic trend, possibly even smartwatches. However, everything had to begin with a strong and distinctive aesthetic – the element that defines the major watchmaking names and is recognisable from several metres away, without needing to read a name on a dial.

The colours of the glacier

And the dial had to immediately recall the vision that came to him on that formative day – a vision of the majestic glacier that would be the “base camp” for all of Montblanc watchmaking. Back in the city, the newly appointed Laurent Lecamp set about translating the reference photo he had taken into the face of the watch he envisioned. He shared the idea with his new team. This was back in 2021. “Reproduce a glacier on the dial? Impossible! If it were feasible, it would have already been done,” he was promptly told by the suppliers he reached out to. But he was not deterred: if it had never been done before, it would be original and distinctive.

The dial of each Iced Sea Automatic Date draws inspiration from the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in the Mont Blanc massif. A special manufacturing technique known as “gratté boisé” reproduces the impression of deep ice.

Eventually, a solution was suggested by a supplier, who proposed reviving an old technique called “gratté boisé” to mimic the depth of a glacier with all its mineral inclusions trapped over aeons of time. This technique is just one of 30 steps required to produce a single dial; they include alternating between flat, hollowed and scratched surfaces, matte and polished parts, and varnishing everything with the correct shade to preserve the surface textures created.

This method is rarely used today due to the need for a “gutta” – a special wooden jig that holds the dial feet in place for manual processing – which are no longer commercially available. Each dial is rubbed with a brush and natural detergent using circular movements to polish the base plate and bring out the colour after galvanic bath processing.

When it comes to colours, we typically picture glaciers as white or blue, but they actually include a variety of different shades, which can be found on the dials created by Montblanc. These variations often stem from the presence of impurities that alter the colour of the ice. For instance, blue ice, found in the Mont Blanc massif, is the result of trapped air bubbles. Green ice, predominantly seen in Antarctica, is due to microscopic algae present in the snow. Black ice lacks any inclusions or air bubbles, which means it absorbs sufficient light to appear black. Black ice can also be caused by volcanic ash within its structure, as seen in the polar regions.

The grey colour is inspired by the ice of one of Mont Blanc’s largest glaciers, the Mer de Glace. Under certain lighting conditions, the ice appears grey, revealing the mineral deposits trapped within its structure over millennia. In other regions, the snow can exhibit bright colours ranging from apple green or red to shades of yellow-orange. This typically occurs during specific times of the year, often in spring and summer, when microscopic algae within the snow start to reproduce. Although they are generally invisible to the naked eye, these organisms can become so abundant that their colour is visible from far away.

“We only replicate colours found in nature,” explains Laurent Lecamp. “Now that we have established credibility with this type of dial, we aim to go even deeper into the details.” He notes that since this innovation, some major players in the industry have tried, unsuccessfully, to acquire the same technique from the supplier. Everything was there in the name from the start – and in the glaciers that capture and preserve everything (including prehistoric men like Ötzi, from 3200 BC) with an intense and all-encompassing power.

The caseback as landscape

This meticulous attention to detail applies not only to the dial but to all of the watch’s components – from the sound produced by the rotating bezel, reminiscent of a dolphin’s call, to the easily interchangeable and instantly adjustable bracelet with its V-shaped links, inspired by carabiners and the practical needs of mountaineers.

In this all-encompassing reflection on the origin story of Montblanc, even the elements that usually remain hidden are given special treatment. Instead of settling for the open caseback that has become a norm in Swiss watchmaking, Laurent Lecamp decided to reimagine the back of the case, with the aim of redefining the “sociology” of the watch. He explains: “When someone picks up a Montblanc watch, I want them to start by turning it over and looking at what’s hidden on the back of the case!”

Montblanc has also developed a unique three-dimensional laser engraving technique for the caseback, producing an effect of remarkable depth and realism. This model portrays the legendary K2 in the Himalayas.

The Iced Sea models, which have become the brand’s best-sellers, with two-thirds in steel, feature a colourful three-dimensional laser engraving on the back. This could depict Mont-Blanc, another iconic summit, Tibetan prayer flags, an iceberg, or a diver in icy waters.

“For me, luxury is primarily about what is not visible, like the scarlet stitching hidden in the lining of a waistcoat. I’m constantly looking for that unique signature, a differentiating factor, and a technical and aesthetic level of finish unprecedented in this segment,” explains Laurent Lecamp. “The engraved caseback is hypnotic, like a photograph. In mountaineering, we’re drawn to what we can’t see, to the element of mystery, to curiosity about what we’ll see once we reach the summit.”

It takes four different steps to produce the three-dimensional laser engravings on the watch back, which are the result of titanium oxides: creating the relief image, applying contrasting matt and shiny finishes, colourisation and finally engraving around the edge. On average, each watch back takes 4.5 hours of work.

No oxygen = no oxidation

Mountains have a certain aesthetic, which significantly influences the aesthetic of the dials, as we’ve seen. But mountaineering is also a high-tech and scientific field where peak performance is crucial. In this context, no one is better known than Reinhold Messner, the first person to conquer the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 metres. His success came from a uniquely simple approach: charting his path without sherpas, without a team, and crucially, without supplementary oxygen. Essentially, he took the Alpine style and applied it to the Himalayas.

Reinhold Messner is a “Mark Maker”, a friend of the brand. His 1986 achievement influenced the design of Montblanc’s watches, which are now equipped with “Zero Oxygen” technology. How does that work? The cases and movements are placed in a sterile chamber, from which Montblanc’s watch technicians remove all oxygen and (given that nature abhors a vacuum) replace it with nitrogen, a neutral gas. The watches are then assembled inside this machine, which is equipped with special gloves.

Montblanc has pioneered the Zero Oxygen technology, featured in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen “The 8000”, as a tribute to mountaineers who have scaled peaks exceeding 8,000 metres worldwide. By eliminating fogging and preventing oxidation, this technology extends the lifespan of the movement.

This complex procedure takes far longer than traditional casing-up, but it brings high added value: “Less friction between the components, more durable functions, no susceptibility to temperature change, no condensation…” Each watch comes with its own Zero Oxygen certificate.

Laurent Lecamp tested the benefits himself during the last Antarctic Ice Marathon, which he ran alongside Simon Messner, Reinhold’s son. The race takes place on the Union Glacier, a few hundred kilometres from the South Pole. It’s a 42.2 km trek on foot, at an elevation of 700 metres, across snow and ice, with temperatures down to -20 C° and frequently brutal winds. “I really struggled towards the end. I had to grit my teeth for the last 10 kilometres!”

But the Zero Oxygen watches held up: they didn’t absorb any moisture, they didn’t fog up and, of course, they didn’t need charging! “Zero Oxygen is another strong and distinctive concept from Montblanc watchmaking, and no one can take it away from us! Oxidation affects human bodies in the same way as it does watches: it causes ageing. Removing oxygen from the case slows down the ageing process of the components and oils.”

Laurent Lecamp adds: “Initially, there was some resistance from the team, because it had never been done before. Perhaps the fact that I’m not an engineer means I’m not afraid to suggest ideas that might seem naive at first. But it would be a mistake to limit ourselves.”

Minerva: perpetual inspiration

Aside from the technological innovations taking place with the sports models, other developments are happening in Montblanc’s more traditional watchmaking. One name that rings out loud and clear at Montblanc is that of Minerva, the historic manufacture that it has gradually brought in-house over recent years. All movements dating back as far as 1902 can still be sent in for restoration!

Here too, Laurent Lecamp is focusing on unique elements: a fluted bezel to control the chronograph function, a reversed movement. Minerva represents the crème de la crème of Montblanc’s activities, which include developing exclusive calibres for individual collectors.

“The Iced Sea has enabled us to attract many new customers. At the same time, we can cater to the most discerning collectors thanks to Minerva’s heritage and mastery of grand complications,” Laurent Lecamp concludes. It’s a blend of craftsmanship and science, aesthetics and performance – with more new developments to be unveiled in our next issue!

The Montblanc Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition features a historic hand-wound Minerva MB M16.29 movement with all its meticulous hand-finishing. This mesmerising movement has been flipped over to display all the mechanical action on the dial side of the watch. At first glance, the viewer may think it is a skeletonised movement, but a closer look reveals that this historic chronograph movement is on full display on the dial side.