s we reported in our last issue (see Europa Star September), the legendary New York brand Tiffany & Co. is undergoing a true watchmaking renaissance, under the leadership of its general manager Nicola Andreatta. “This time, we’re going to do it!” is the motto of the year at a company with a very rich record in timepieces, from its historical links to Patek Philippe in the 19th century to its cooperation with firms such as Rolex or IWC in the 20th century. But this time, Tiffany is definitely going Swiss, with new headquarters and facilities in the Confederation. Given that the company is aiming to be not simply a jeweller that produces timepieces, but a true watchmaker in the noblest sense of the word, this is the place to be.

In this new issue we offer our readers a closer look at what Tiffany has up its sleeve, and how it actually proposes to “do it”! We focus on the new Tiffany CT60® Annual Calendar, created in two different limited editions of 60 timepieces (one with a black dial, the other grey), which celebrates in accomplished splendour the revival of a 165-year-old tradition of horological master craftsmanship.

 AMERICAN DESIGN

The design of the Tiffany CT60® Annual Calendar draws on historical yet relevant antecedents. The watch is indeed an essential piece of the new and ambitious CT60® collection, whose challenging role is none other than to usher in the “transition from historic to modern Tiffany design”. The collection is inspired by a gold watch given in 1945 to US President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who wore it at the Yalta Conference – the original watch was recently bought back by the New York company at auction.

Roosevelt is not the sole inspiration for this watch. ‘CT’ obviously stands for Charles Tiffany, who opened – and occasionally had breakfast in – his store in 1837. “Good design is good business,” as Charles Tiffany used to say, and his heirs seem to have taken this lesson to heart! As much as the watch is an Annual Calendar, the number 60 is a tribute to the “New York Minute – 60 seconds of pure possibility,” the dynamic concept that summed up the fast-paced lives of Mr Tiffany’s contemporaries, and which was embodied in the nine-foot Atlas clock above his store, reflecting the cadence of a modern city. People relied on this unique public clock to keep their lives running on time…

 SWISS HEART

Despite the undeniably American DNA on the outside, the Tiffany CT60® Annual Calendar watch is 100% Swiss on the inside, drawing on the best of both worlds. Each timepiece is individually numbered and features a self-winding double-complication mechanical movement, with Côtes de Genève, colimaçon and perlage finishing. The movement is housed in a 40 mm case of 18 karat white gold. A black or grey soleil finish and silver poudré numerals set off the clean, masculine dial, with sapphire crystal glass front and back. The timepiece comes with a hand-stitched black or grey alligator strap. Additionally, a new Tiffany CT60® Annual Calendar watch in rose gold with black dial will debut by the end of the year.

From a formal point of view the watch succeeds admirably, injecting an essential contemporary touch into an artfully vintage line, without detracting from its heritage. The dial, like that of the watch that inspired it, is superbly readable. The ingenious annual calendar system has a subdial at 6 o’clock for the months, with the days around the periphery of the dial. Subtle touches of white and red distinguish the second hand from the day pointer. In this model Tiffany has succeeded in reconciling two eras and two worlds. This judiciously calculated reinterpretation of its own history will no doubt open up exciting new horizons and opportunities for the brand going forward.

 CT60® ANNUAL CALENDAR LIMITED EDITION

Limited edition of 60 pieces, individually numbered.
Functions: Annual calendar indicating the Date and Month with Hours, Minutes, Seconds. Case: 40mm in 18k white gold. Dial: Grey soleil finishing with silver poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top and case back glass. Strap: Hand stitched grey alligator, with alligator lining. Buckle: Deployment buckle in 18k white gold. Movement: TCO.0402 Self-winding mechanical. Movement Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage techniques. Power Reserve: 42 Hours. Water Resistance: 10ATM/100M/330F. Price: $20,000.

TIFFANY - CT60® ANNUAL CALENDAR LIMITED EDITION

 CT60® ANNUAL CALENDAR LIMITED EDITION

Limited edition of 60 pieces, individually numbered.
Functions: Annual calendar indicating the Date and Month with Hours, Minutes, Seconds. Case: 40mm in 18k white gold. Dial: Black soleil finishing with silver poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top and case back glass. Strap: Hand stitched black alligator, with alligator lining. Buckle: Deployment buckle in 18k white gold. Movement: TCO.0402 Self-winding mechanical. Movement Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage techniques. Power Reserve: 42 Hours. Water Resistance: 10ATM/100M/330F. Price: $20,000.

TIFFANY - CT60® ANNUAL CALENDAR LIMITED EDITION

 CT60® CHRONOGRAPH 42MM

Functions: Chronograph with Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date. Case: 42mm in stainless steel. Dial: Blue soleil finishing with silver poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top and case back glass. Bracelet: Stainless steel. Movement: TCO.0279 Self-winding mechanical. Movement Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage techniques. Power Reserve: 42 Hours. Water Resistance: 10ATM/100M/330F. Price: $7,250.

TIFFANY - CT60® CHRONOGRAPH 42MM

 CT60® 3-HAND 40MM

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date. Case: 40mm in 18k rose gold. Dial: White soleil finishing with gold poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top and case back glass. Bracelet: Black alligator. Movement: TCO.0215 Self-winding mechanical. Movement Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage techniques. Power Reserve: 42 Hours. Water Resistance: 10ATM/100M/330F. Price: $12,000.

TIFFANY - CT60® 3-HAND 40MM

 CT60® 3-HAND 34MM

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds. Case: 34mm in stainless steel, set with 60 round-cut diamonds (0.7 carat). Dial: White soleil finishing with gold poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top and case back glass. Bracelet: Stainless steel. Movement: TCO.1116 Self-winding mechanical. Movement Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage techniques. Power Reserve: 42 Hours. Water Resistance: 10ATM/100M/330F. Price: $8,750.

TIFFANY - CT60® 3-HAND 34MM

 EAST WEST® 42 X 25MM

Functions: Hours, Minutes. Case: 42x25mm in stainless steel. Dial: White with gold poudré numerals. Crystal: Sapphire top glass. Strap: Black alligator. Movement: TCO.0900 Quartz movement. Water Resistance: 3ATM/30M/100F. Price: $3,500.

TIFFANY - EAST WEST® 42 X 25MM

Source: Europa Star November 2015 Issue