Starting out as a traditional Swiss watch brand after WWII, Milus underwent a transformation about 15 years ago into an emblematic ‘design’ brand, which favoured the Bauhaus style of minimalism, functionality, purity and simplicity.
Unfortunately at the time, the owner of the brand and a talented designer, Paul Junod was wrong in being right too soon. Copied stylistically by the fashion brands which were shamelessly ‘inspired’ by his designs, he found himself unable to compete with the global quantities produced by these same fashion entities. He realized he had to turn the page.
When Jan Edöcs took over the reins of the brand in 2003, he clearly showed what he wanted to do with Milus. Not denying the heritage of the brand (he employs Paul Junod to design some of the pieces), Edöcs went to work to give it a new appeal. Without compromise but with grace, he succeeded in reformulating Milus’ stylistic codes, adding a touch of glamour, sensuality, colour, stones, a greater use of materials and textures, a more feminine design, and a softer feel.

‘True luxury’
As he says himself, he is redefining luxury into what he calls “True luxury.” What does this meanı “What I call ‘true luxury’ is a manner of creating, a way of feeling,” Edöcs answers. “It is not only about money, about the value of the piece. It is a much more personal relationship with the object, a more sensual relationship. Milus does not claim to please everyone. Our goal is to create a special atmosphere, a warm and unique atmosphere.”
The expression ‘designer's jewellery watch’ is a way to better understand Milus’ particular approach to watchmaking. This is where the brand is positioning its products. The road will be long, admits Jan Edöcs, but now Milus has brilliantly started its journey with nine new collections launched in 2004 and two new ones slated for 2005.
“You have to hold our watches in your hands; you must touch them,” says Edöcs with passion in his voice. “All our energy goes into the smallest details. We are uncompromising on the high level of finishing. A brand is not created in two years,” he adds, “but our products are now speaking to the long term.”




Monocera & Aurigos



Cirina & Eridana


Style and emotion
The style of Milus, the particular emotion that it exudes, its positioning at the convergence of design and jewellery, and its goal of representing a ‘modern’ form of luxury are all excellently displayed in the new ‘Enamel & Diamonds’ high jewellery version of the Monocera collection. Its 18 carat white gold open elliptical bracelet is covered in ‘islands’ of Grand Feu blue cobalt enamel surrounded by wandering rivers of diamonds that enclose the delicate white mother-of-pearl dial.
This same delicate finishing and refinement are found in a new line launched this year, the Cirina. With this watch, Milus is trying a new form, the tonneau. A great watch classic, very much in fashion this year, the tonneau watch demands perfect equilibrium. It is clearly achieved in the Cirina with its pure design and stylized form, which matches perfectly the curves of the tonneau. The delicate work on the dial, with its two distinct zones, accentuates the tonneau shape. The soft transparence under the arabesques offers a superb feminine touch.
Covered in diamonds, the same tonneau form becomes even more sumptuous in the Milus Agenios ‘Haute Joaillerie’ model, which demonstrates clearly the brand’s potential when it enters the world of prestige jewellery. (See also the ‘Spotlight Milus’ article in this issue for more details.)
The other new line, Aurigos, with its softened square shape, domed sapphire crystal, elegantly decorated mother-of-pearl dial, and its stylized Arabic numerals seem to move away somewhat from the brand’s design basics. The spirit of Aurigos is more baroque, with touches of Art Déco. It is a watch that is less ‘Milus’ in our way of thinking, but one that will surely open the brand to new groups of consumers.

New markets
After Switzerland, Germany, Spain, Russia, the recent launch in Hong Kong, and while waiting for a strategic entry into China, Milus is targeting the Middle East and Japan. The United States will be approached later.
The magnificent ad campaign launched by the brand will certainly help to get Milus’ Highly Personal message out. Original, powerful, and unusual, a group of women with their eyes closed (as well as the male photographer) evoke personalities well known for their strength of character, independence and talent. Rather than traditional testimonials, these women share a spirit, without pretension or arrogance, but with strength and softness: something like ‘interior luxury.’


Source: April-May 2005 Issue

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