The product returns to centre court
Holding on, resisting and weathering the econ-omic storm while continuously working on the product - this seems to be the attitude of all the independents that we met. When nothing is stable, when everything flounders in all directions, the only solid pillar is—and remains—the product. “During the crisis, many people panicked and said that it was necessary to change direction,” explains Renaud de Retz of Hautlence, “but we believe just the opposite. We have a long-term strategy based on the product and we want to maintain the direction in which we are going, which means working on various displays, showcasing the mechanical watch and offering products that can certainly be considered ‘concept’ pieces but which are finished in the traditional manner, function perfectly, and are deliverable.”
After the models HL, HLs and HLq, Hautlence is going to introduce a new collection at BaselWorld 2010 that has been in the works for two years, with prototypes that have been totally developed in-house on their own machines. In line with their philosophy, this will be a watch with a completely unique display but whose automatic movement will be very different from the HL—using a principle of a jumping chain. Also in the brand’s pipeline is the design of the third collection, which will include a jumping digital display, expected to be available in 2013.
“We already know that this type of inno-vative product must be personally accompanied in the markets. The design results from a deep reflection about the distribution, targeted to collectors and true watch aficionados. Since October 2005, we have delivered 800 watches. In the windows and on the shelves around the world, in the 40 points of sale that we have, only 150 remain. We know therefore that 650 are being worn and that our potential for a year’s sell-out is 150 watches. It is up to us to organize how to reach those 150 clients in the most direct manner possible.”




Richard Piras, Ladoire associate and the RGT back


Immense efforts in education
Thierry Oulevay, of Jean Dunand, thinks much the same way. He will also present a new model next year, again developed over the last two years. The new movement will be revealed in Geneva during the same period that the SIHH will be held, followed the next year by the finished watch. As for each new collection, it will be a world’s first. All that we know for the moment is that it is a chronograph, whose case will be especially interesting and whose movement parts—including the gears—have been designed as a function of the techno-aesthetic concept of the timepiece. “Our route is now planned out for the next five to ten years to come,” affirms Oulevay. “All our research directions have been decided. This does not prevent us, however, from meeting specific demands from the market. For example, in addition to this new collection, we are going to propose more technical and dial-less models for our Orbital Tourbillon. This is what our collectors have asked for.”
Thierry Oulevay goes on to explain, “There are immense efforts in education and persuasion that need to be achieved with the sellers. The explosion of haute horlogerie also came with a great lack of knowledge on the part of the clientele. Today more than ever, it is very important, even vital, to have very good products, perfectly developed. The demand dictates the rhythm. Those who do not understand this are making a mistake with their merchandise.”
François-Paul Journe and quartz
According to François-Paul Journe, "This crisis should make us a bit more humble and be a learning experience.” But will the watch industry take these lessons to heart? Seeing Journe’s sceptical smile, it is clear that he doubts it. For him, the path he will follow, with no deviation, stretches before him. Thus, for example, already a few years ago, he started a project that may surprise many, but that will be strengthened by the current situation—a quartz watch! What? François-Paul Journe, this paragon of the mechanical timekeeper is now making quartz? How can that be?
Journe has thought about this concept for a long time. “If the great watchmakers of the past had known about quartz, would they have used it?” he asks. There can be no doubt as to his answer to the question. “Of course they would have used quartz because their supreme goal was chronometry. The only difference is that they would have treated it with all the care of a watchmaker. This is what I intend to do: work with quartz in a watchmaking manner, by taking extreme care and applying technical innovations.” This surprising project, which we will discover in 2010, is emblematic in its own way of a return to the basics of timekeeping, such as chronometry, a return to values as demanded by the crisis. But is it really the case?




Lionel Ladoire and the RGT front


A ‘good’ slap in the face?
In the opinion of Thierry Oulevay, “after the crisis, things will take off again, but not like before. We hope that we will see a new code of ethics. We observe what is happening in the financial sector. We can only hope that the changes are not merely on the surface but deeper. One thing is sure. The era of the technocrats and the financiers is over for the watch industry. It has signalled a welcome return to the product and thus to people, increasingly more rare, who really understand the product and who really love the product.”
This talk of the product, at the centre of everything, is heard from all our interlocutors. But will the crisis also mark a change in design? “Well, obviously, bling bling has become very hard to sell,” adds Journe who does not see a return to the past. “People are going to go straight to the essential,” predicts Jean-Daniel Maye. And, as Renaud de Retz sums it up, “We have all had a slap in the face. We all are suffering. But after all is said and done, the crisis has not been such a bad thing.”

The strategies of the independents confronted with the economic crisis: Part 1
The strategies of the independents confronted with the economic crisis: Part 2
The strategies of the independents confronted with the economic crisis: Part 3
The strategies of the independents confronted with the economic crisis: Part 4
The strategies of the independents confronted with the economic crisis: Part 5


Source: Europa Star October-November 2009 Magazine Issue