One of the most brilliant demonstrations of a combined horological and aesthetic excellence can be found at De Bethune. The association between the horological expert and great Italian aesthete David Zanetta and watchmaker Denis Flageollet produces an unparalleled approach, timepiece after timepiece. “Tradition and innovation” is one of the most-heard mantras among brands, to the point where it has become just banal common ground. But at De Bethune this tension between the heritage of great traditional watchmaking from the 18th century and an innovation that is both formal and technical is taking on the shape of a veritable manifesto for the watchmaking of the 21st century.

DB28 Digitale by De Bethune

Take for example the new DB28 Digitale. The creative inspiration comes straight from the beautiful French Directory clocks of the end of the 18th century, but the setting for the indications makes the watch ultra-contemporary and sumptuously pure in its lines. What immediately stands out is the beauty and finesse of the silvered dial with its circular “barleycorn” guillochage, a handcrafted technique that was historically reserved for case backs.
At the centre of this guilloché dial is a spherical moon surrounded by a blue disc set with a few small stars. This spherical moon, of which one hemisphere is in mirror-polished palladium and the other in blued steel, is extremely precise: one lunar day in 1,112 years. Above it is a large window for the jumping hours and a minute disc that appears in a peripheral opening that is itself overlooked by a blue night sky. That is all – and it is all simply magnificent.

To power this DB28 Digitale, Denis Flageollet chose a movement that he himself calls “simple”. Nevertheless, this “simple” movement, which can be seen through the case back, incorporates no less than seven patented innovations by the brand, in particular for the self-regulating double barrels, the circular balance in silicon and white gold, the triple “pare-chute” shock absorber, the flat terminal curve on the spring, the spherical moon and the floating lugs that allow this lightweight timepiece (case in mirror-polished titanium) to be adjusted on the wrist with millimetre precision.

Dream Watch 5 by De Bethune

The Dream Watch 5 is another astonishing watch presented by De Bethune. It is neither a watch in the traditional sense of the term, nor a machine for big kids like the ones MB&F produces, but a genuine sculpture for the wrist. “One of the aims of our Dream Watches,” explains Denis Flageollet, “is to enjoy exploring shapes and allow ourselves to dream a little. In a way, this is more the work of a jeweller than a watchmaker, although it is nevertheless a technically demanding task because the space available inside this domed deltoid shape in polished titanium is very restricted. The movement therefore has reduced dimensions, with a jumping hour and revolving minutes, as well as a discreet, tranquil moon.” With its taut lines, profiled relief and large ruby cabochon on the crown, the Dream Watch 5 is all about softness and aerodynamic shapes. A watch to touch and to caress as much as to wear and to read.

At BaselWorld, De Bethune will present a third astonishing watch: a monopusher chronograph crammed full of technical innovations but with unparalleled readability (discover it in the next issue of Europa Star, our Baselworld special issue).

Other Geneva Shows Articles:

F.P. JOURNE breaks the taboo of quartz

HUBLOT, the luxury Swatch

CHRISTOPE CLARET bluffs everyone with his poker

Source: Europa Star February - March 2014 Magazine Issue