omputer-aided design (CAD) democratised mechanical complications, making them accessible to numerous manufacturers and favouring those who chose to develop in-house movements.

The desire to become independent of suppliers and the resulting consolidation in the latter part of the 20th century changed the face of the sector, expanding the portfolios of large groups like Swatch, Richemont and LVMH.

1991: The era of record-breaking mechanical supercomplications begins. Blancpain’s 1735 model, named after the company’s founding year, combines previously introduced movements in one watch. The image dominates the ad, relegating the brief description to an afterthought.

Brands including IWC, Audemars Piguet and Panerai introduced “XL” models, initiating a style revolution. Their success extended the trend to all segments of the market. In answer to the unrivalled prestige of mechanical movements, quartz technology offered increasingly sophisticated alternatives, including radio-controlled precision (Junghans), electronic chronographs with automatic winding (Seiko), touchscreens (Tissot), wrist cameras (Casio) and automatic watches with digital displays (Ventura).

1991: The Junghans Mega 1, a digital radio-controlled watch, is presented in a futuristic setting, capturing the dream of absolute precision. This text-free ad, perhaps inspired by science-fiction film sets, seems to imply that commentary is superfluous.

In the early 1990s, Swatch novelties sold like hot cakes and became the subject of speculation – not unlike the situation we’re seeing in 2023. Advertising held up a mirror to an industry bursting with health. Watch brands had significant resources to fund advertising campaigns and spared no expense, filling specialised and general-interest magazines with creative and diverse messages. Some brands leveraged prestigious endorsements while others exploited the appeal of tradition. Some focused on technical innovation, others the lure of limited editions, striking slogans or surprising imagery.

1994: The reunification of Germany and investments from the Vendôme group (later Richemont) paved the way for the revival of historic Glashütte watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne. This Spanish magazine ad showcases the iconic Lange 1.

1994: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore chronograph, one of the first oversized models of the 1990s, is launched with the endorsement of Italian ski champion Alberto Tomba, a well-known figure among sports enthusiasts.

1995: The image of gymnasts seemingly suspended in mid-air offers an alternative interpretation of the expression “Precision Movements” by Raymond Weil.

1996: Patek Philippe’s “Generations” campaign, created by the company’s London agency, launches with black and white photographs of parents and their children, accompanied by text that emphasises the value of tradition across generations.

1998: The arrangement of the counters on the Sportura’s case resembles the dashboard of a sports car, like the one in the background, suggesting that the name of Seiko is synonymous with innovation.

2000: Pre-smartphone, the watch industry embraced touchscreens, targeting a young demographic as the ideal customers for innovative products. Swiss manufacturers witness a shift in the market’s centre of gravity towards the Far East.