hen Audemars Piguet’s Heritage and Archives Manager Raphaël Balestra walked us through the company’s archive registers, the oldest of which date from its foundation in 1875, we weren’t in the least surprised to learn that “the hardest part was deciding which model” to reinterpret for the next instalment of the Le Brassus-based brand’s [RE]Master programme. Particularly as, pre-1950s, there were no “models” or “references”: every watch that came out of the workshops was a unique and bespoke creation. The dozens of meticulously conserved archive volumes, with their thousands of pages, are a cornucopia of shapes, materials and complications.

Audemars Piguet began this exceptional (and theoretically limitless) series four years ago to mark the opening of the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus. The programme takes its name from the remastered recordings enjoyed by music enthusiasts. A limited edition of 500, the inaugural piece, [RE]Master01, was a supremely elegant, neo-vintage reinterpretation of a rare 1943 chronograph wristwatch, distinguished by its gold-toned dial, blue tachymeter scale, rose gold hour and minute hands, blue chronograph seconds hand and 40mm diameter.

A 500-piece limited edition, [RE]Master01 (Ref. 26595SR) from 2020 was the first model in this ambitious programme. It retained the distinctive aesthetic of a 1943 chronograph with a two-tone steel and pink gold case enriched with a gold-toned dial.

In contrast, this second piece, [RE]Master02, comes from a disruptive angle with its asymmetrical case, accentuated by sharp corners and extended by integrated lugs, and that impressive bevelled glass. “Originally this was in crystal. We’ve reinterpreted it in contemporary sapphire crystal, which was a whole other ballgame,” said Raphaël Balestra, pulling out the order sent to the case manufacturer in 1960.

The second model in the programme, [RE]Master02 reinterprets a rare 1960 model with an asymmetrical case, seen here in an issue of “La Suisse Horlogère” (n°11, bottom left).

Source: The Watch Library

The original 5159BA model in 18k yellow gold was produced as just seven units, one of which is on display in the brand’s museum. It comes from a golden age of asymmetrical models by Audemars Piguet, as Heritage and Museum Director Sébastian Vivas explained: “Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet created more than 30 asymmetrical models. Most of these were produced as fewer than 10 pieces.”

For Audemars Piguet, this reinterpretation is also intended as a tribute to Brutalist architecture, said to be named for its extensive use of exposed raw concrete (béton brut in French) – Le Corbusier was a leading proponent, despite the Swiss-French architect’s refusal to be pigeonholed or labelled. The current is seeing a resurgence in interest and the parallel between two disciplines, watchmaking and architecture, giving fresh perspectives to a rich heritage jumps out.

Limited to 250 pieces, the automatic [RE]Master02 moves effortlessly between then and now. It reprises the asymmetrical rectangular case (in a 41mm size compared with 27.5mm for the 1960 model) but crafts it from 18k Sand Gold. This makes it only the second watch to adopt this alloy, after a Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked model that was introduced earlier this year.

This 250-piece limited edition boasts a 41mm asymmetrical rectangular case in 18k Sand Gold, an alloy whose colour hovers between white and rose gold.

Combining gold with copper and palladium, Sand Gold’s colour sits precisely at the frontier between white gold and rose gold. Put it next to white gold, and it looks like rose gold; put it next to rose gold, and it looks like white gold!

No doubt the critical challenge when making the case and the sapphire crystal is the slope at 3 o’clock, but the optical effects and play of light across the surfaces are worth the effort! Audemars Piguet spent two years researching and developing the form of the sapphire crystal, whose 15.8 degree bevel accentuates the asymmetry of the case, to guarantee solidity and water-resistance.

Incisions in the many-facetted case at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock allow the hands to sweep the dial – a corollary of the asymmetrical design. Its surface has been entirely brushed with a satin finish for a matte, “raw” look that contrasts with the polished contours of the dial. This required skill and dexterity to retain the sharpness of the geometric edges and corners of the Sand Gold case. Also in Sand Gold, the case back is engraved with the words “Limited Edition”.

A combination of geometric shapes, the dial comprises 12 differently sized triangles separated by sand-gold-toned partitions.

No less complex, the dial in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” blue, a colour obtained by Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), combines rectangular and triangular shapes. Twelve differently sized triangles are separated by galvanised sand-gold-toned partitions which converge at the centre of the dial. Each one is machined in brass then given a linear satin finish before being secured by tiny posts to the brass plate. Once assembled, they create a visual effect that brings the dial to life: look at it from a different angle and the blue takes on an entirely different nuance.

The rectangular case, accentuated by the bevelled sapphire crystal and sharp corners, have earned this model its nickname: “[RE]Master The Edge”.

Echoing the structure of the case and the diagonals on the dial, the hour and minute hands are also in 18k Sand Gold, as is the “Audemars Piguet” signature at 3 o’clock, obtained by galvanic growth.

Audemars Piguet wanted to conserve the original’s characteristic slim profile and turning the watch over reveals Calibre 7129, an extra-thin hour and minute movement without a date indication. Based on Calibre 7121, it debuted in 2022 on Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin models.

Thanks to a new construction and a larger barrel, this 2.8mm-high movement produces more energy, which ensures greater precision over a longer period of time. The oscillating weight, mounted on ball bearings, is fitted with two reversers for bidirectional winding. Inertia blocks inserted into the thickness of the balance wheel prevent aerodynamic friction from slowing it down.

The oscillating weight in Calibre 7129 is fitted with two reversers which convert its bidirectional movement into a unidirectional rotation for winding.

Calibre 7129 boasts refined decorations such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin brushing, snailing, sunray brushing, circular graining and polished angles. The sand-gold colour of the 22k gold oscillating weight echoes the colour of the case.

The last word goes to Audemars Piguet’s new CEO, Ilaria Resta: “Audemars Piguet has always been attached to its past, while looking to the future. The [RE]Master collection perfectly embodies this spirit and pays tribute to our long watchmaking tradition, marked by timepieces that are emblematic of their era, reinterpreted today using the most advanced technologies and a resolutely contemporary approach.” With so many gems to choose from, we’re already excited to discover what other time-travelling delights Audemars Piguet has in store!