ohn Byrne became interested in watches at the age of 13, when his parents gifted him his first timepiece. An industrial designer by trade, the co-founder of Byrne pursued his love of watchmaking with non-academic studies, consulting his “horological grandfathers” — spiritual and otherwise —, including Jean-Claude Sabrier and Gendron.

He went in search of watches he could restore, scouring sources the world over. After taking over an authorised service centre in Paris, for twenty-five years he renovated and repaired models by the industry’s leading names, the likes of Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Breitling, but the idea of setting up his own brand was always at the back of his mind. His “eureka moment” came in 2015 during a performance of George Balanchine’s Apollo at the Garnier Opera. The idea of a watch with four faces was born.

The Meca, released in May 2024, with openworked dial and crown at 12 o’clock. Shown here with Arabic numerals.

©Igor Laski

Thus began a long process to develop John’s original concept and find the partners capable of giving it form. Byrne co-founder and CEO Claire Cohen picks up the story: “We travelled the length and breadth of Switzerland until we found our principal partner, Le Temps Manufactures in Fleurier [read our article here]. We clicked straight away. They’ve worked with brands such as Ressence and so they welcome innovative, unconventional concepts, and understand the mindset of an independent brand.”

Le Temps Manufactures produces everything for Byrne apart from the grade 5 titanium cases. As Claire Cohen explains, “the challenge was to find a partner that understood our DNA and the message we bring, which is about innovation, a playful element and quality. A watch that is complex to manufacture yet simple to use. We want to appeal to collectors with an instant wow effect, both visually and mechanically.”

The blue-dial GyroDial 311. The contours of the case were inspired by the Porsche Targa. Indices (here with Arabic numerals) can be fully personalised.

©Igor Laski

Mission accomplished with Calibre 5555, which equips the GyroDial Zero open-dial model and the GyroDial 311 solid-dial model, whose contours are inspired by the tail end of a Porsche 911 Targa (another of John’s passions). The blend of complexity and simplicity that Claire Cohen mentions are evident in the instantaneous jump of the cubic indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9, their precision fit, flush with the dial, and the soft click each time the watch changes faces. The result brings to mind the large date complications of the foremost manufactures.

Alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes on the grade 5 titanium case.

©Igor Laski

This striving for excellence is also visible in the uniquely shaped case. Designed by John Byrne, it is made by Boucledor. The company, which manufactures clasps and buckles for the watch industry, forms a group that includes a specialist in titanium components. This guarantees the high standard of finish Byrne requires.

This complementary duo — John the creative mind, Claire the luxury retail specialist — officially launched Byrne in June 2022 at Geneva Watch Days. Success has not been slow in coming: a year and a half later, Byrne has sold 200 watches. Distribution is taking shape in France (Chronopassion), Germany (Haag Juwelier and Pletzsch), Japan (Noble Styling Gallery, Mitsukoshi and Kijinkan) and in the United States (Provident).

Close-up of the Meca Blue. The openworked dial reveals the complexity of the pivoting mechanisms for the indices, with Arabic numerals in brushed titanium.

©Igor Laski

As Claire Cohen explains, “we’re composing an inner circle of retailers. They are our first ten retailers and are part of the conversation on future developments for the brand. These are genuine partnerships built on mutual understanding. We give them exclusivity and they share their vision of the market. It’s the best way to move forward. Looking ahead, we want to do the same in markets such as Singapore, Hong Kong or China, even India.”

Manual-winding Calibre 5557 that equips the new Meca, with haute horlogerie finishes and crown at 12 o’clock.

©Igor Laski

Byrne’s concept of a watch that changes faces every 12 hours (or on demand), with a wide selection of indices that can be fully customised on request, has been well received. But isn’t there a risk that the brand’s identity could become lost before it’s even been established? Claire Cohen disagrees: “The ultra-personalisation option is a definite talking point but so far accounts for just 15% to 20% of production. Collections are clearly defined. There’s the GyroDial 311 with a solid dial, the GyroDial Zero and the Meca line that we released in May 2024. It features a slimmer, manual-winding movement, Calibre 5557, inside a smaller 38mm case, still in grade 5 titanium, an openworked dial and the crown at 12 o’clock. Byrne’s identity is more to do with the original concept of the watch’s changing faces, the quality of the movement and the case, and the playful aspect.”

The GyroDial 311 with grey dial and Roman numerals.

©Igor Laski

The brand is building its future on solid foundations, a strong identity and a small number of clearly identified partners. So what next? “We’ll communicate more and make our brand more desirable and better known to an audience of connoisseurs. Social media and selected influencers are key vectors for us,” says Claire Cohen. “We need to consider our production requirements, too. By paying suppliers upfront, we’ve secured two years’ worth of production.”

Where does Byrne see itself in the medium term? “We aim to reach 1,000 watches within four to five years but certainly not exceed 5,000 in the longer term. We have plans to introduce a complication, probably in 2025, then, in the next three years, a grand complication.”