ulien Tornare and Benoit de Clerck, the former and new CEO of Zenith respectively, resemble one another in at least one aspect when we meet them: they are both extremely affable and open, and well aware that a boss’s likeability is an asset worth as much, if not more, than any marketing campaign. To them, this likeability comes naturally.

The former brought about the “renaissance” of Zenith, the brand long thought of as the sleeping beauty of Swiss watchmaking (read our full article by Isabelle Cerboneschi here). The task of the latter is to help it realise its full potential, in a less favourable macro-economic environment. “Zenith has been awakened in a beautiful way, now it has to get out of bed”, says the new CEO, continuing the image.

The triple calendar from Zenith makes its great comeback this year, with the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. This model combines the performance of the automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre with a triple calendar and moon phase.

He can rely on his longstanding expertise in the international markets after more than 20 years with Richemont, divided between three continents. Because his ambition is to make Zenith a key global brand commensurate with its history, which by 2025 will have clocked up 160 years. Benoit de Clerck talks with us about his career and his vision as he takes up his post with the Le Locle-based brand.

Europa Star: What was your career path before taking up the reins at Zenith?

Benoit de Clerck: I discovered watchmaking at TAG Heuer in the late 1990s, and six months after I arrived the brand was acquired by LVMH – already! – in 1999. At the time I was in charge of the Middle East and my office in Dubai was gradually transformed into the regional agency for all the group’s watchmaking business. A few years later, since I had a lot of experience of the region and the distribution networks, Richemont offered to make me the representative for its fine watchmaking brands there. I stayed with the group for 22 years – until this year and my return to LVMH at the helm of Zenith!

Zenith presented the titanium version of its Chronomaster Sport at the opening of the UTS tennis championship, of which the brand is the official timekeeper.

Did you have a mentor during all those years?

For a long time I was in contact with a number of figures who taught me a lot. I was also lucky enough to spend nearly as much time out in the field on the three strategic markets for Swiss watchmaking, the Middle East, Asia and the United States. So I’ve nearly always had a “multi-brand” and a “multi-continents” hat. After opening the Richemont office in the Middle East, I developed its brands (except Cartier) in Latin America before moving to the United States for IWC, which was virtually inexistant there at the time, then Roger Dubuis. After that, I went off to represent three brands in very different segments – Baume & Mercier, IWC and Roger Dubuis – in Hong Kong for the APAC region. In four years, we opened more than 50 boutiques in China for IWC! Before joining Zenith, I held down the post of chief commercial officer at Panerai. Maybe this taste for very different jobs and places comes from my childhood: I was born in Belgium, but I grew up in a lot of different countries and regions, including the Middle East…

What brought you to Zenith?

After all these experiences, I’m still “hungry”! I found the role I was offered attractive, with its opportunities for decision-making on a cross-cutting strategy, after multiple posts operating more in commercial development. But there’s always a CEO who makes the final decision (smiles). Lastly, I can put my experience into one single brand in all its globality: I’m delighted to be doing it for Zenith and the group trusts me.

The new version of the latest-generation automatic high-frequency chronograph, the calibre El Primero 3610 of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, beating at 5Hz (36,000vph), supports the 1/10th of a second. Even with the addition of a full calendar, its powerful transmission ensures a power reserve of around 60 hours.

How did you prepare for it?

The non-competition clause gave me six months to read, travel and do things I hadn’t been able to do before – in short, to “clean out” my mind and prepare myself properly! But I did some homework on Zenith every day. I learned about the brand and met lots of people.

New version of the Chronomaster Sport with a green ceramic bezel

What surprised you when you took up your post as head of the brand on January 3rd?

To tell you the truth, given Zenith’s rich history I discover something new every day: above all, it’s incredible how accurate and relevant Georges Favre-Jacot’s original vision remains today. Don’t forget that he registered the name “Pilot” even before planes were really invented! We’d already worked with Julien Tornare (ed. note: the ex-CEO, now with TAG Heuer) in the past and he did an excellent job at Zenith, getting the brand up to speed, paring down the collections and rethinking the marketing. With the Chronomaster, for example, the brand offering is much more attractive for a broader public.

What’s the position of the brand today and where do you want to take it?

You could say that Zenith is no longer a “sleeping beauty”. It’s awake but not out of bed yet (smiles). The bases are in place and I’m going to help it stand up! That means working on distribution and brand clarity. My intention isn’t to create a revolution: I intend to continue along the same lines, adding my own personal touch. I like the idea of helping a brand to grow, to realise its full potential – which, to tell the truth, is boundless in Zenith’s case.

A new, automatic high-frequency tourbillon calibre powers the Defy Skyline Tourbillon, available in two versions, steel and black ceramic.

But the macro-economic conditions aren’t exactly favourable…

That doesn’t worry me. Zenith has shown its potential these past few years. We’re in a very favourable price segment and offer a lot of watchmaking “content” at a reasonable price with outstanding design. A lot of “watch” for the money, you could say. We’re in the right segment and comfortably positioned.

When will we be seeing the first Zenith with your creative touch?

There’ll be a small first part next year. All of 2024 was already in production when I arrived and we plan as early as possible to ensure maximum predictability as far as orders for parts are concerned. But I take a very open approach, especially in the run-up to the brand’s 160th anniversary in 2025. If you have an unusual idea for Zenith, feel free to come and see me!

The outsize date display of the Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition has a new-generation, patented mechanism that advances and stabilises the two discs in less than 0.03 second.