ith a name that literally sounds like “clock”, Swiss-born mechanical engineer Martin Klocke was almost predestined to enter the horological world. After a career in the German plastics and automotive industries, and years of research into vintage watches, he decided to take a deep dive into his longstanding passion in 2021. The first two models of his brand Sherpa Watches were presented at last year’s Watchtime exhibition in Düsseldorf.

The launch marks the rebirth of the Compressor Dive Watch, after an almost 60-year hiatus. The brand’s first models are inspired by the mid-sixties’ classics from Swiss watch manufacturer Enicar S.A., a company that closed its doors in the 1980s. Martin Klocke discovered archives in Switzerland that had remained unopened for decades. He recovered the knowledge he found there and translated it into the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultradive. The originals have long been favourites with many collectors, due to the famous waterproof case with bayonet compressor lock closure (EPSA-Stop) and twin compressor crowns (Monoflex), invented by legendary watch case maker Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA).

The launch marks the rebirth of the Compressor Dive Watch after an almost 60-year hiatus.

Martin Klocke, founder of Sherpa Watches

The two models incorporate the innovative compressor technology in the Monoflex crowns and EPSA-Stop case backs, based on designs by EPSA and improved with modern materials and production technologies. There’s another original feature: the Tibetan Buddhist mantra Om Mani Peme Hung, commonly used in the Sherpa region of the Himalayas, has been microscopically laser engraved on two of the wheels of the Mantramatic movements that drive these timepieces. “With the naked eye you will not notice the mantra is there. But you will feel it,” says Martin Klocke. We met him.

Europa Star: What is the origin of Sherpa Watches?

Martin Klocke: The project stems from my watch archive research. I am fascinated by the vintage models from the Swiss watch brand Enicar, especially the OPS and Ultradive models from the 1960s and 1970s in the “Sherpa” line. The brand is now owned by a Hong Kong company and no longer seems to have any real ties to its origins, especially the decades that interest me. I tried to contact them to re-launch these models but never got a response. They have no market activities in Europe, and I discovered that the name Sherpa was available for trademarking in the European Union. Besides, I am a Buddhist myself, so I felt a special connection with this name... That made me decide to act. Little by little, all the pieces of the puzzle came together.

The seconds wheel is engraved with a mantra – a work of ultimate precision!

How did you proceed?

I retrained. Although I have always been passionate about watches, my job was as an engineer in the automotive industry. I started by doing research and visiting some watchmakers in Switzerland. I visited the Voutilainen and Fortis workshops. The meeting with Jupp Philipp, the owner of Fortis, was particularly striking because Fortis was another iconic brand of that time, and it convinced me that I could launch my project, provided I had the right network of partners. I tried to set up this network in Germany, but it was not easy, because there are not really any private label specialists here. So I did all the design and supplier research myself, with the support of a small team. I’m open about all my partners in this project. The assembly is done in Pforzheim.

“I tried to set up a supplier network in Germany, but it was not easy, because there aren’t really any private label specialists here.”

The Sherpa OPS

Which models have you launched?

The two most distinctive models in the Sherpa collection, the Ultradive and the OPS. Back in the 1960s they were the largest watches in the series, with a 40mm diameter, which was quite a lot for that decade. Moreover, they are the only models with a twin compressor crown featuring a crown protector. The icing on the cake is that they both have the same case... even though they look completely different.

But don’t you have any intellectual property issues with the Enicar owners?

I checked if these models were still protected by law, but all patents and copyrights have expired. The only right that could possibly remain – although not in Germany – is the copyright on the artistic design, but it is linked to the person who created the design at the time. The other technical patents have long since expired.

Are these identical recreations?

No, we have made changes. For example, the models are equipped with a new orange dayglo Super-LumiNova that we developed together with the Swiss company RC Tritec. Above all, I am fascinated by the work of the now defunct company Piquerez SA (EPSA) on waterproof watch cases. They invented the first compressor technology for the case back, inner bezel and crown. The personal archives of EPSA’s technical manager were available and I found the documents for the design of the crown. It’s not screwed: it uses water pressure to tighten the seal. The higher the water pressure, the tighter the seal... kind of like the martial arts philosophy: use the strength of your enemy! This is the first time a brand has used this system in some 60 years, and we modified and recreated it. We also changed the glass from plexiglas to a very complex curved sapphire glass.

“The personal archives of EPSA’s technical manager were available and I found the documents for the design of the crown. It’s not screwed: it uses water pressure to tighten the seal.”

The Sherpa Ultradive

What about the movement?

Our Mantramatic calibre is built on a Sellita base. In Nepal and Tibet, the Sherpas turn their prayer wheels following a mantra, hence the name, which also evokes circular motion. We actually engrave mantras on the seconds wheel and escapement wheel. They are so small that we had to call on the expertise of a laser engraver in Solingen, Germany, which is known as the knife production capital of the world. The seconds wheel has a diameter of 7 mm. We allocate a portion of the sales revenue to waste recycling and education initiatives in the Himalayas.

The Mantramatic movement

The “mantra” wheel

How is your brand distributed?

I am a one-man army, so I take it one step at a time! First the production, then the sales. Sales currently go through my website, but I am starting to receive requests from retailers. So it will be a mixed distribution strategy. I plan to produce 150 watches per model per year.

Have you considered crowdfunding, like many watchmaking start-ups?

The price segment I was addressing was perhaps too high for sites like Kickstarter. I found a private investor who loves our story and is helping with the funding. Building a brand does indeed require good core funding... especially if you source from Germany and Switzerland!

“I plan to produce 150 watches per model per year.”

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

The Sherpa Ultradive

• Stainless steel case, polished, EPSA-STOP compressor case back construction • Diameter / height: 40.0 / 13.5 mm • Domed sapphire box crystal, internal anti-reflective coating and inner black metallisation on the outer rim • 360° rotating inner bezel, marked with Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1 • Top compressor crown to operate the inner bezel (must be pulled for operation), no screw-down • Full crown protection, to avoid entanglement and shocks while diving • Bottom compressor crown to operate the hands and set the date, no screw-down • Domed sapphire box crystal with internal anti-reflective coating • Fully water resistant up to 20 bar • Mantramatic MM01 movement, based on Swiss made Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic, premium (top) grade, fine decor, gilt finish, custom rotor • 38 hrs power reserve • Sculpted lugs with 20 mm band width • All components of the watch are produced and assembled in Germany and Switzerland • Tropic-style watch strap, made of robust vulcanised rubber – black or white • Retail price: €5,900 (incl. 19% VAT)

The Sherpa OPS

• Stainless steel case, very durable satin black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, EPSA-STOP compressor case back construction • Diameter / height: 40.0 / 13.5 mm • Domed sapphire box crystal, internal anti-reflective coating and inner black metallisation on the outer rim • 360° rotating inner bezel, marked with Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1 • Top compressor crown to operate the inner bezel (must be pulled for operation), no screw-down • Full crown protection, to avoid entanglement and shocks while diving • Bottom compressor crown to operate the hands and set the date, no screw-down • Domed sapphire box crystal with internal anti-reflectivecoating • Fully water resistant up to 20 bar • Mantramatic MM01 movement, based on Swiss made Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic, premium (top) grade, fine decor, gilt finish, custom rotor • 38 hrs power reserve • Sculpted lugs with 20 mm band width • All components of the watch are produced and assembled in Germany and Switzerland • Tropic-style watch strap, made of robust vulcanised rubber • Retail price: €5,800 (incl. 19% VAT)