eneath the imposing wood beams of Domaine du Grand Malagny, display cases stretch the length of the space, which ordinarily seats up to 900 guests (and regularly hosts weddings, birthdays, anniversaries and receptions). Right now, however, the venue is home to WPHH or World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie, organised each year by the Franck Muller brand, owner of the sixteen-hectare estate, located a short distance from Geneva and minutes from the brand’s headquarters in Genthod.

The cases are awash with shapes (predominantly tonneau, of course), colours, tourbillons and gemstones. It’s an unmistakable style and one of the brand’s key strengths. At a time when others are reining in the number of references, Franck Muller opts instead for a plethora of new releases, from the Round Triple Mystery, which adds a third rotating disc for the seconds to one of its best-selling lines, to the latest collaboration with French artist Jisbar, whose revisit of the iconic Crazy Hours replaces numerals with quirky, brightly coloured symbols.

The Franck Muller Mystery replaced hands by a single rotating disc. Next came the Double Mystery with two discs marking hours and minutes in seamless motion. Now, the Round Triple Mystery adds a third rotating seconds disc.

As exuberant as its products are, Franck Muller is a discreet force in Swiss watchmaking: a family-owned giant as a new generation of Sirmakes prepares to take the helm and steer the brand into the future. This discretion could be seen as the corollary of the brand’s almost complete autonomy through verticalisation. That it doesn’t take part in the big industry gatherings such as Watches and Wonders adds to its air of mystery.

Available in five finishes, each limited to 50 numbered pieces, the Crazy Hours x Jisbar is a vibrant work of art, where each numeral carries the imprint of the artist’s visual universe. For each model, Jisbar has created a unique artwork on linen canvas which has been fragmented into 50 numbered pieces.

A few figures give some idea of the scale of the business. Franck Muller employs close to a thousand people in Switzerland; annual production is between 30,000 and 40,000 watches, and the average price is CHF 24,400. Dials are manufactured in Les Bois, in the Jura; case stamping is in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and straps, both leather and synthetic, are made in Le Locle. A visitor to the main facility, in the canton of Geneva, is struck by the sheer density of CNC machines. Moving between the four “turn-of-the-century-style” buildings takes us from case-making to strap inserts, from electroplating to movement finishing. Certain machine-tools, such as strap cutters, are purpose-designed in-house. It’s an impressive display of manufacturing capability.

Around 200 additional references a year

Even Chief Executive Nicholas Rudaz has home-grown origins, having previously headed Hotel La Réserve... located next-door to Franck Muller’s Watchland headquarters. Vartan Sirmakes and Rudaz met when their respective buildings were under construction in the early 2000s. As well as Domaine du Grand Malagny, the group is behind the Chocolaterie de Genthod, which opened at Watchland in the midst of the Covid pandemic. Football fan Vartan Sirmakes is also chairman of FC Stade Lausanne Ouchy.

The striking asymmetrical case of the Silhouette CX Snake requires complex assembly, guided by detailed 3D files.

While the rest of the industry cuts back the number of references to streamline production, Franck Muller, known for its bright colours and extravagant numerals, introduces around 200 additional references a year: “First we learn how to say yes to the customer and bend over backwards to satisfy their request, whatever it may be,” insists Nicholas Rudaz. Any watch can be customised for an additional 30% of the price, on average, and three months’ wait time. What would ordinarily be a logistics nightmare –it only takes one late delivery from a supplier to delay production — is possible because Franck Muller has the capacity to manufacture even the smallest or most complex component in-house.

Grand Central Tourbillon by Franck Muller.

The brand’s offering is split more or less equally between in-house movements and third-party calibres, the majority sourced from Sellita. “Again, a response to demand,” says Rudaz. “Some customers wish to acquire a Franck Muller watch for CHF 7,000 and we make this possible.” The impressive Grand Central Tourbillon? In the catalogue. The Aeternitas with its 36 complications? Also. A Middle Eastern sultan and watch collector ordered several of the latter just before the coronavirus outbreak, which helped the company through this difficult period.

“The importer decides”

Distribution bucks another industry trend. “The reason Japan is such an important market is linked to the quality of the agent who put all his energy into introducing us to the market,” adds Rudaz. “We trust our importers. There isn’t one person deciding for everyone, worldwide. This also explains the large number of references. The importer decides which are the right ones for their market.”

The new Vanguard Slim Night Cut is fitted with an in-house, ultra-thin movement. The first 24 pieces in this collection are available exclusively from Chronopassion in Paris.

When other brands are pulling out of their historic distributor network, this loyalty is opening up fresh retail opportunities for Franck Muller. One example is the recent opening of two new stores in Thailand, in partnership with the Thai travel retail group, King Power. A Vanguard Casablanca King Power 35th Anniversary Limited Edition was unveiled for the occasion, available exclusively from these boutiques.

The new Franck Muller boutique in Thailand, in partnership with King Power.

Prior to WPHH, we were given a tour of Watchland, where we were shown the Fast Tourbillon. Franck Muller’s fastest ever tourbillon, it completes one rotation in five seconds. “Once you’ve seen it, the others don’t compare! For a long time, our focus has been creativity. We’re independent and have complete freedom.”

The Vanguard Navy collection, exclusive to Latin America and the Caribbean.

The Franck Muller brand has given rise to the Franck Muller Group, whose component parts have had varied fortunes. Former Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe recently joined the group to relaunch Pierre Kunz, named after its founder, a watchmaker at Franck Muller, who launched the brand with Vartan Sirmakes’ backing in the 2000s (more here).

As well as its chocolate venture, since last year the group has been making lighters with S.T. Dupont. Its visual identity is sufficiently powerful to lend itself to just about any item. In Japan, couples can even tie the knot at a Franck Muller wedding, with themed decorations and table settings. Do you take this watch…

Real estate is the latest area to get the Franck Muller treatment. After the Franck Muller Aeternitas Tower, currently under construction, the group has announced its next project, with London Gate Real Estate Development in Dubai. The Franck Muller Vanguard Tower will offer 722 apartments on 34 residential floors, overlooking the marina.