iring ceramic is one of the most fascinating processes in the art of watchmaking, calling for a vast range of skills (see our detailed article on our visit to Comadur here).

One brand has made this technology its speciality: Rado, the watchmaker which also developed the first scratch-proof case, in 1962. The company has produced a high-tech version, now available in several colours, but also a plasma-finish model which necessitates firing in a kiln at a temperature of 20,000 degrees, when it takes on a hue similar to that of steel.

True Square x Kunihiko Morinaga: son cadran transparent est l’un des éléments caractéristiques. Dans le pur style de Kunihiko Morinaga, il a été soumis à un traitement photochromique, ce qui signifie qu’il change de couleur en fonction de l’intensité lumineuse. La montre présente un boîtier carré monobloc et une couronne en céramique haute technologie noire polie.

As CEO Adrian Bosshard tells us, ceramic watches (which include Ceramos, see below) account for three-quarters of Rado’s production, an unparalleled proportion on the watchmaking circuit. We interviewed him.

Europa Star: Over the past decade, what have been Rado’s main achievements in materials research?

Adrian Bosshard:: You have to distinguish between the introduction of new materials on the one hand and the development of designs and special shapes on the other. We’ve developed several new ceramic colours, in particular in the True Thinline Le Corbusier collection, with very precise criteria in terms of tone. We go into the minutest detail, whether for blue, turquoise or olive green ceramic. At present, we have a range of over 20 distinct colours. And that’s no small matter: for each colour you need extremely precise firing and procedures to align the colours in uniform fashion on the case and bracelet. Those are skills I regard as “magical” when it comes to colour harmony!

Rado introduit toujours plus de couleurs sur ses modèles True Square Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier en céramique haute technologie.

The DiaStar also made a sensational comeback in 2022 when it incorporated a new type of material (read about it here)…

Yes, that’s Ceramos, a mixture of 90% high-tech ceramic and 10% metal alloy, for the model’s relaunch on the 60th anniversary of what at the time was the first scratch-proof watch in history. After the first anniversary watch, developed with designer Alfredo Häberli, we presented models in gold and platinum tones, again in Ceramos, a material that’s even harder, but also lighter, than “hard metal”. We’re making considerable progress in mastering Ceramos, both in terms of colours and shapes.

Ce modèle Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton arbore un bleu marine profond à la finition mate. Il est équipé du mouvement R808 à spiral Nivachron.

You talk about the importance of shape. What are we talking about here?

Our R&D isn’t just about developing a new type of material. First and foremost, it’s about knowing how to use it. Take the Anatom, for example, the first “anatomical” watch – a kind of second skin – dating from 1983, which we relaunched at the end of last year. By using ceramic injection for the case, we create a really ergonomic shape. And we’re going to equip this model with a new ceramic bracelet before the end of the year.

Le modèle DiaStar Anatom présenté l’an passé reprend une montre lancée en 1983 qui se distinguait par sa forme ergonomique en étroite harmonie avec le poignet.

What is the potential of plasma ceramics and which lines are they used in today?

Plasma ceramics are already used in the Captain Cook, Centrix, True Square collections and we’re going to incorporate them into the Anatom. Firing at more than 20,000 degrees modifies the ceramic and lends it a colour approaching that of steel or titanium, which is very popular and complements black or white ceramic. It’s an extremely rare technology. We’ve just added a new kiln on the Boncourt site, complementing the one already installed at Le Locle. It’s a single shade, you can’t develop variants. But we can work on the finish, polished or brushed. The production process is more expensive for us than for other types of ceramic, but customers get it for the same price.

Modèle True Square Skeleton. Boîtier et couronne en céramique haute technologie jaune mate, construction monobloc. La céramique haute technologie est une substance légère qui résiste aux rayures, tout en offrant un toucher soyeux unique.

tech ceramic is a lightweight, scratch-resistant material with a unique, silky feel. Are you considering adding new materials or new colours to your range in the future? In which directions is your R&D taking you?

We’ll never stop! We are continually entrusting new missions to other entities in the group, whether it’s for components, alloys or movements. All I can tell you is that we have some very spectacular developments in the pipeline. We’re not going to stagnate or go backwards. We’re going to go on surprising our customers. There will be variations in the existing families, but we also aim to develop new types of finish, bracelet and dial. And we’re not skimping on the movements – as illustrated by the introduction of the R808 self-winding movement with its distinctive central bridge. We still have some secrets up our sleeve…

Le cadran découpé de la True Round Open Heart révèle le cœur de la montre.