Those who innovate


New Materials

GALLERY

October 2024


New Materials

BIVER

After its inaugural Carillon Tourbillon Répétition Minutes, the brand owned by father-son duo Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver is going back to basics with a three-hand automatic watch equipped with the JCB-003 calibre developed in collaboration with Dubois Dépraz. With eternity as its guiding horizon, stone dials are at the heart of Biver’s philosophy. This limited Atelier Edition features superlative finishes that highlight the materials used, including an 18-karat pink gold case and a dial crafted from pietersite, a dark blue stone veined with white and orange.


ARTYA

With its Son of Earth collection, the independent family-run Geneva brand is showcasing a multitude of real pieces of rock, magnified under a new dome case whose wide opening and globe effect give the impression that you’re contemplating a celestial body. The first piece to be presented was none other than the Dôme Earth. Chrysocolla was chosen to embody the blue planet. A second piece is available with a steel case with black DLC treatment.


MING

This brand has already spawned several firsts in the watch world. Now it has unveiled the Ming 20.01 Series 3, claimed to be the first watch with a fused borosilicate dial, driven by Agenhor’s innovative Agengraphe movement. Voids are the key to this unique dial; 600 of them, in a radially symmetrical circular pattern, form a wave in sectional thickness that is clearly visible when the light strikes the dial at an angle. A unique technology developed in partnership with Femtoprint SA was used to create these cavities in a cake of borosilicate built up and fused with a high energy laser. All 600 cavities are individually hand-filled using syringes and a liquid Super-LumiNova X1 mixture, creating a stunning visual effect.


ULYSSE NARDIN

A chrysocolla stone dial is the centrepiece of the Diver Atoll, a kaleidoscope of striking blues and turquoises enhanced by spirals of earthy browns and blacks to represent tranquil lagoons, vibrant coral reefs and infinite marine horizons. Limited to 100 pieces, with each dial hand-cut, this 39 mm watch comes in an 80% recycled stainless-steel case with polished and satin finishes.


DE BETHUNE

A master in the art of thermal oxidation, De Bethune continues to explore all the nuances of colour resulting from the heat released by the chemical reactions that occur when titanium is heated. The DB28xs Purple Rain displays all the rich chromatic variations of violet, fusing shades of red and blue in a harmonious ballet. Although significantly smaller in diameter than previous models (39 mm), this creation nevertheless retains De Bethune’s unique and distinctive design aesthetic.


HUBLOT

The MP-11, with its sculptural 7-barrel movement providing a 2-week power reserve, is clad for the first time in a new sapphire colour: a translucent aqua blue called Water Blue, the latest addition to the palette of sapphire hues mastered by Hublot, a pioneer of materials research. This new shade is based on an original chemical formula, a precise growth rate and an exclusive transparency index, while guaranteeing all the usual properties of sapphire: brilliance, luminosity and superior resistance to heat, cold, shocks and scratches. 


RICHARD MILLE

For the RM 65-01 automatic split-seconds chronograph, one of Richard Mille’s most complex automatic movements, the RMAC4, has been fitted inside a case made from the top-secret yellow-orange Quartz TPT®. The dominant colours create a rich and dynamic chromatic scheme on the dial, while each colour is associated with a different function, enhancing legibility. The same colour code is used on the push-pieces and crown.


PANERAI

With its new Elux LAB-ID Submersible watch, Panerai is announcing a ‘revolution in mechanical luminescence’. Elux technology, patented in 1966, is being brought up to date again after eight years of research and development, with an entirely mechanical movement that can light up on demand. This feat is the result of an innovative combination of four of the movement’s six barrels, dedicated solely to storing energy and precisely designed to transmit it to a compact 8 x 2.3 mm microgenerator that transforms this mechanical energy into electricity. A total of 150 timepieces will be produced (50 per year for 3 years). Brilliant!

The Europa Star Newsletter