he story began in 1854. Emile Thomas, a traditional Parisian watchmaker, started his own company developing marine chronometers, whose accuracy was a crucial asset at the time. He was appointed Clockmaker to the French Navy and the Observatory of the Bureau des Longitudes, a prestigious title that can be found on some of his creations, clocks and marine chronometers.

His reputation grew. A young apprentice watchmaker at the Ecole d’Horlogerie in Paris, Joseph Auricoste, played an active role in the company’s development back in the late 19th century. In 1900, the brand was awarded a gold medal at the Paris World Fair. The first watches co-signed “Thomas et Auricoste” appeared at around this time. The following year, the company became Auricoste. Emile Thomas saw in Joseph the young enthusiastic heir required to carry the company torch.

Marine chronographer on display at the Auricoste museum

Professional timekeeping devices

In addition to his watchmaking skills, the young entrepreneur soon showed an aptitude for business. He travelled to promote the brand in Hanoi (in 1902), Brussels (in 1910), and in the United States (St. Louis in 1904). He became the official supplier to the Elysée Palace with Auricoste clocks and watches being presented as gifts to visiting Heads of State in Paris.

Chronometer mantel clock and the new Type 20 Chronograph Flyback wristwatch

Then WW1 broke out. Auricoste supplied over 30,000 compasses and pocket chronometers to the French armed forces, thus strengthening the bonds between the brand and the military world. The relationship was to last and it established the brand’s reputation for quality. Its timekeeping devices were renowned for their ruggedness, reliability, accuracy and readability. These performance capabilities made them the preferred choice for equipping the armed, naval and air forces in France and abroad. The boom in aviation and the car industry only served to increase Auricoste’s appeal.

Original Type 20 Flyback model from 1954

By this time, Joseph Auricoste had handed over the running of the company to his son, Pierre. In 1954, the latter introduced the famous Type 20 Chronograph Flyback, upon which the French air force promptly ordered over 2,000 pieces. This period marked the beginning of Joseph’s close collaboration with Patek Philippe, and together they installed their first (electro-mechanical) time-keeping networks on the French navy’s warships. Their renown was such that they could be found on all warships equipped on-board clocks in France, as well as numerous foreign vessels in Spain, Italy and the United States.

One family history, but more than one family

But times were changing. The quartz crisis also hit Auricoste and its instruments of time-measurement. A propitious encounter would save the brand from bankruptcy. In 1962, Claude Tordjmann, a sports brand distributor, also dealt in related time-keeping devices. He had distribution exclusivity in France for Hanhart in the 1960s, then also for Heuer in the 1970s and ultimately for Zodiac.

He met with Pierre Auricoste during this period and the two became friends. Laurent Tordjmann, Claude’s son, who now works with his father (and his nephew, Alexis du Portal) as designer and head of brand communication, tells the story: “In the early 1980s, Pierre turned up on Claude’s doorstep with a crate full of after-sales chronograph returns. He said: “Can you deal with it? Quartz will put me out of business.” Claude, surprised and indignant, exclaimed: “No way!” There then ensued a lengthy discussion on market development. The two friends decided to join forces to save the brand. They agreed on the terms. Everything was set. Then fate intervened. Pierre was hospitalized for a cataract operation… and tragically died during the operation. His children were not interested in taking over the family business, which consequently went bankrupt. My father then decided to take over the business directly from the court.”

The passion for Auricoste was thus handed down from one family to another.

Renaissance with the tool watch

The initial idea was to continue producing military and professional clocks and watches. Auricoste was thus chosen to equip the iconic Charles de Gaulle aircraft carrier in the late 1990s. But the love affair with the army and navy had come to an end. It was now time to rethink matters.

Clock on flight deck of the Charles de Gaulle aircraft carrier

Laurent Tordjmann recalls: “The main question was how to transition from a B2B to a B2C business model? Until then, designs had to comply with strict specifications drawn up by military customers. Functionality was of the essence in these models: ruggedness, reliability, simplicity and readability. We realized that we had all the right ingredients for the perfect tool watch.”

Chronographe Type 20 39 mm de 2021, la taille originelle du modèle de 1954

Bursting with the wisdom that led to a unique, sleek design, the brand made the move to the civilian world. The bezel was now without grooves, the crown more discreet, the ergonomics more subtle, but the distinguishing features remained. Laurent Tordjmann redesigned the Type 20, preferring a 39 mm diameter, but the dictates of the profession recommended 42 mm, more in keeping with the exuberant and showy early days of the 2000s. It was released in 2010. Commander Cousteau’s Spirotechnique then resurfaced in 2012, thus evidencing a renewed faith in the brand. In 2021, the Type 20 Flyback Chronograph was back in its original 39 mm diameter and the Scuba 300m was introduced as a professional dive watch in the same dimensions.

Auricoste Type 26 Aéronavale dive watch

Staying humble

Today, Auricoste produces 400 watches a year and the main markets are “essentially France, South Korea to a certain extent, and, via our website, the US and Japan”, explains Laurent Tordjmann. The watches house Swiss movements with automatic winding: the chronographs (Type 20 and Type 52, Ed.s note) are fitted with Dubois Dépraz; the Spirotechnique with ETA 2824-2; and the dive watches house with Sellita SW200. Robust and reliable, in true Auricoste tradition.

How can you tell an Auricoste customer? “You can be sure they’re passionate about history and watchmaking. We do very little in terms of communication. Customers discover us mainly by word of mouth. And we attract a lot of young people. They seem to be very interested in history.”

Re-edition of the Spirotechnique, Commander Cousteau’s professional dive watch

What plans for the future? “To stay true to our DNA and pass on our legacy. And design new collections without losing our focus. If we could manage 2,000 watches a year, that would be wonderful.” Auricoste watches are affordable at prices ranging from 1,650 Euros for the Type 26 Aéronavale to 3,920 Euros for the Type 20 and Type 52 Flyback chronographs.

As it prepares to celebrate its 170th anniversary, Auricoste is back on the agenda for all fans of fine watchmaking history and authenticity, as well as enthusiasts and collectors in search of meaningful watches. But it has retained the humility of its early days in professional timekeeping instruments and stays forever true to a family’s passion.

Laurent Tordjmann looks at it this way: “We want recognition for what we are and what we represent. My father, Claude, is 91 years old and still goes into the office every day. He’s still thinking about the brand’s development. It’s wonderful to see that passion and realise that it’s been passed on to me and Alexis (his nephew, Alexis du Portal, Ed.s note).”