Watchmaking in Germany


German watchmaking

GALLERY

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October 2024


German watchmaking

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

Immediately recognisable by its unconventional design, the now cult Seventies Date Panorama Chronograph is being reissued by Glashütte Original in several limited editions, including this model with its turquoise ‘Swimming Pool’ dial. The delicately rounded angles are a feature of the carefully polished and satin-finished 40 x 40 mm steel case, which houses the automatic manufacture calibre 37-02 with its characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate and flyback function. Truly original.


WEMPE

Wempe named one of its main watch lines Iron Walker in homage to the daring construction workers who built the steel skeletons of the first New York skyscrapers at dizzying heights. The German house is now introducing a series of new models in 36 and 40 mm diameters, with a choice of “Playful Apricot”, “Refined Lavender” or “Elegant Petrol” dials. They all feature a robust stainless-steel case with an integrated bracelet.


LOUIS ERARD x KUDOKE

Stefan Kudoke was the first independent German master watchmaker to win a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, back in 2019. He has just reinterpreted Louis Erard’s Régulateur in a collaboration with creative mastermind Manuel Emch. The collection reveals several distinctive signatures on Kudoke’s ‘Handwerk’ dials. The lower part of the dial features a grained finish, producing a frosted effect. This light blue version is limited to 100 pieces. 


LANG & HEYNE

The Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition from Lang & Heyne has been specially created to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Sincere Fine Watches in Singapore. This finely crafted model features a ceramic dial with a central decorative plate in sand-blasted royal blue silver, creating a 3D effect thanks to the tiered arrangement of the three parts of the dial. It is powered by the VI-I calibre with its distinctive triangular bridge, whose remontoir complication ensures the visual appeal of the jumping seconds on the dial while effectively regulating the movement.


MORITZ GROSSMANN

The Tourbillon Tremblage is the perfect example of the expressive power of traditional craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics, all made possible by the array of skills mastered by the German watchmaker. The focus of the watch is the painstakingly crafted dial with its tremblage surface created by hand – a multi-part symmetrical construction made from German silver – and the sophisticated tourbillon mechanics. The model comes in rose gold and white gold versions, each of which is limited to 8 pieces.


HANHART

The new Preventor HD12 timepiece, a 3-hand model with central seconds and a more compact diameter of 39 mm, is the perfect showcase for the Black Forest manufacturer’s exclusive HD12 steel, setting a new benchmark for scratch resistant cases. Large quantities of carbon are diffused into the stainless steel during the surface hardening process, creating a gradual transition from the hard surface to the softer core. This offers an advantage over a pure coating, as it prevents brittleness. A transparent hard coating (PVD) is then applied to provide additional protection.

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