or Hajime Asaoka, watchmaking is an extremely personal business. “My brand is based solely on my subjective view as the creator. However, as a result, I feel that my watch is often regarded as a relatively conservative piece in the watch industry,” he said of his eponymous brand.

The annual production of his classically inclined timepieces hovers around five per year: a highly limited production given all parts are manufactured, decorated and assembled in his workshop. Most likely he satisfies his volume urge through his second, more affordable brand, Kurono Tokyo.

Hajime Asaoka entered the watchmaking scene in 2013.

Mr. Asaoka entered the watchmaking scene with the Tsunami timepiece in 2013. The beautifully decorated, 37mm sector-dialled watch, equipped with a uniquely designed movement with a large balance, caught global attention. This was soon followed by the Project-T Tourbillon in 2014, Tourbillon Pura in 2016 and the Chronograph in 2017. Currencies have fluctuated a lot in these years, but most of his watches fetch prices in the region of USD 90,000 to 130,000.

Unlike the Hajime Asaoka brand, whose timepieces are very difficult to lay your hands on due to long waiting lists, Kurono Tokyo watches are made in the hundreds and are available through its website.

Project-T Tourbillon

This brand, which now celebrates its fifth anniversary, was created to offer Asaoka’s designs in a much more affordable way. One of its latest releases is the 34mm Calligra, which comes with silver white, stark black or dark mother-of-pearl sector dials. Here, Mr. Asaoka adopted Breguet hour markers that he made in a calligraphic manner by hand.

“Generally, it is very difficult to place and balance Arabic numerals in a circular pattern as indices, because they were originally meant to be placed in a straight horizontal line,” he explained, adding that it is very important to always start with hand drawing when it comes to Breguet numerals. Their price? Around USD 1,180 + taxes.

Kurono Tokyo Calligra with Breguet numerals and dark mother-of-pearl in the centre of the dial

Hajime Asaoka and Kurono Tokyo have been joined by Otsuka Lotec in what Mr. Asaoka has named the Precision Watch Tokyo group. The group values its identity as Japanese watchmakers and is also training young watchmakers. “There is also the possibility of launching new watchmakers,” said Hajime Asaoka, about the future of the group.

For Mr. Asaoka himself, it seems the future will remain as personal as ever. “I will stick to manufacturing based solely on my subjective view.”

Chronograph