Watchmaking in Japan


Watchmaking in Japan

When Japan inspires Swiss watches

GALLERY

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By Anders Modig Davin
July 2024


When Japan inspires Swiss watches

Urushi combination techniques, enamel miniaturisations of heritage artworks, architectural theory, comic influences, origami, engraving and motifs from nature – this mix of current and vintage timepieces shows how Japanese influences enhance Swiss horology.

Year of the Dragon

The 2024 Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is an artisanal expression of luck and prosperity which marks the Chinese zodiac cycle (which is also celebrated in Japan). The dial - whose dragon represents imperial authority, wealth, fertility and auspiciousness – is made with urushi lacquer, gold powder and mother-of-pearl inlays using the maki-e technique.

Twenty-Year Flyback

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of its Tokyo Boutique in the Omotesando district – a very important step in the brand’s history – F.P.Journe released the Chronographe FB, a 40mm titanium-cased flyback chronograph with a burgundy strap.

Midnight in Paris

The Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Extraordinary Japanese Lacquer – a collection of five limited edition timepieces – was made in collaboration with artist Hakose San (2010). These watches are part of the 2024 Van Cleef & Arpels and Japan: an artistic encounter exhibition in Paris.

Meditative

Koï’s Garden from Louis Vuitton combines hand engraving and miniature painting to capture a classical view of the Japanese garden fish.

The Beauty of Nature

Voutilainen’s long-term Japanese collaborator Mr. Kitamura made the dial of the Voutilainen Setsu-Getsu-Ka by combining urushi lacquer with kinpun (gold dust), jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), yakou-gai (great green turban shell) and awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand). The combination of snow, moon and flowers is a Japanese expression and theme in art and design, which became popular in the late Edo period (1603-1868).

All that glitters

A dozen layers of urushi lacquer are applied, over an entire month, to the dial of the Bulgari Diva Finissima Minute Repeater Urushi, finished with a sprinkling of gold.

Mirror on The Wrist

Bulgari has worked with several architects, including Pritzker laureate Kazuyo Sejima, co-founder of Sanaa. For the mirror-polished Octo Finissimo, she sought to “create a constant and dynamic exchange between the watch itself and everything that surrounds it.”

Time For Art

For the 2024 Biennale Arte in Venice, Swatch presented a collaboration with famous Japanese graphic artist Verdy. The art piece celebrates Vick, the artist’s most famous character.

A Single Flower

Hublot has made a series of watches with the artist Takashi Murakami, one of the latest being this colourful flower for the 2024 Only Watch auction.

Waterfall

Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to Japan’s most celebrated 19th-century artist Katsushika Hokusai with a miniature reproduction of Waterfall at Ono on the Kisokaido Road.

Rare crafts

Patek Philippe’s 2023 Rare Handcrafts exhibition featured exquisite timepieces inspired by Japan, including this table clock with origami cranes, created with cloisonné enamel.

Crystal clear

Shown at the Van Cleef & Arpels and Japan: an artistic encounter exhibition on Place Vendôme in Paris, this 1957 table clock portrays two female figures, sculpted from rock crystal, holding a clock in yellow gold, sapphire and diamond.

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