n 2013, Detroit made headlines for filing the largest municipal bankruptcy in the history of the United States, seemingly marking its downfall, and signalling the decline of American manufacturing. Meanwhile, as the world wrote the Motor City’s eulogy, a local upstart introduced its inaugural watch collections.

This marketing-savvy watchmaker was scripting a different narrative, by placing a full-page ad in the New York Times with a provocative play on words. For the launch of its first women’s watch, it declared: “To those who’ve written off Detroit, we give you the Birdy.” It was a statement not just about a product but about defiance and allegiance.

The Birdy, a 34-mm timepiece with a dial in white mother of pearl, coin edge and wire lugs.

The company named its brand Shinola, paying homage to a bygone shoe polish manufacturer, signifying its mission to restore the city’s shine. Shinola set up shop in the historic Argonaut Building, envisioning a future where it could create jobs in the city while producing timeless, high-quality goods.

Reviving Detroit Manufacturing, One Watch at a Time

Awenate Cobbina, who joined Bedrock Group in 2021, describes the publicity move as “a blend of reverence and humour”. He adds, “We were just starting our business here, standing up for our hometown of Detroit, knowing that the trade wasn’t going anywhere. And [Shinola] hoped to be part of the solution.”

Awenate Cobbina is CEO of Bedrock Manufacturing Company, the parent company of Shinola

Cobbina believes that, as the only large-scale watchmaker in the US, Shinola has a “uniquely American” story to share. Storytelling is a cornerstone, extending from the company profile to its products. He reflects, “How do we tell the story? Is there a narrative we can convey better than anyone else? Are there aspects of Detroit that we can showcase to the world?”

The rebirth of volume watchmaking gained national attention and even received support from then-President Obama, who saw it as a catalyst for revitalising Detroit and American industry. Shinola quickly became synonymous with premium lifestyle branding, resonating with its focus on manufacturing pride and local community investment.

Beside Watches, It’s Crafting Jobs

A decade later, Shinola’s pledge remains steadfast. Cobbina notes, “We have an inordinate number of people that have been working here from the start.” Many employees, from manufacturing to business and retail, have weathered the company’s highs and lows. Cobbina estimates that “over 15% of our team has been with us the entire time.”

Emphasising their community spirit, he adds, “It is a testament to the type of value that they see, their belief in our brand, and what we’re doing as a ten-year-old start-up.” Faithful to its stated mission of boosting manufacturing, the company makes everything from leather goods to jewellery, for home and office, and even for pets, while watches are central to its offering.

Black Arabic numerals and indices stand sharply against a clean white dial while a sub dial punctuates the look of the Runwell, Shinola’s iconic design.

In recent years, the “Time” category (watches, clocks, and straps) has accounted for over 60% of Shinola’s business, with leather bags comprising around 20%, and jewellery showing promising growth. Cobbina underscores their strategic importance, stating, “Those are three areas that we really focus on and want to have front and centre for the customer. I’m a big believer that everything starts from the core. And watchmaking is, and always going to be, undoubtably Shinola’s core.”

How it All Began: The Runwell Collection

The journey began with the Runwell, aptly named after a defining moment during initial tests in the Detroit factory – “It ran well”. The flagship collection has since expanded across various product categories. Yet, the debut watch with its distinctive face remains a best-seller and a symbol of Shinola’s commitment to local production, timeless design, and enduring quality.

According to the company, each Shinola timepiece is assembled by hand, involving over 30 steps. The factory produces hundreds of watches daily (with undisclosed annual output), utilising components sourced from Switzerland and Asia. Many of their leather watch straps are cut and sewn in-house. The quartz movements are hand-built on-site with parts supplied by Swiss partner Ronda AG. And automatic calibres hail from Sellita in Neuchâtel.

Shinola offers ten quartz series and, since 2019, has introduced three automatic series. Their website showcases a range of prices from $400 for time-only quartz watches to $3,000 for their latest mechanical marvel, the Canfield Speedway chronograph, and diamond-studded women’s models. Cobbina explains, “In 2018, we decided to hone in on our core products and core customers – the watch enthusiasts. And in 2019 we started moving to automatics.”

From Growth to Diversification – Selling a Lifestyle

“We don’t want to be your father’s or mother’s watchmaker,” he remarks. “We want to offer the best quality possible, ensuring watch enthusiasts are comfortable with the movements. These are the [customers] we have in mind when crafting Shinola watches and other product categories. They are getting the functionality, the craftsmanship, and stylish designs.”

The Bronze Monster Automatic, a 43-mm timepiece that features a bronze case and dark colourways. It is powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement.

Defined as a “design brand” in its own literature, Shinola appeals to an urban and sophisticated clientele. Although the term “design” may have lost some of its essence through overuse, for Shinola, it embodies style executed with intent and craftsmanship. It’s a call to embrace classic, premium consumer products that elevate intrinsic value and inspire a life well-lived.

The lifestyle approach resonates both domestically and internationally. As reported by Europa Star in 2019, Shinola was expanding its global presence, diversifying its product portfolio, venturing into audio and furniture, and even launching a signature hotel. With ‘Detroit’ proudly displayed in its logo, every product that leaves the factory carries a message, propagating a new definition of the city’s name through thoughtfully crafted items.

Navigating Troubled Waters: 2019-Covid

Amid Shinola’s meteoric rise, there came a moment of reckoning. Unexpected store closures and high-profile layoffs in 2019 fuelled speculation. Cobbina, while dismissing the suggestion of management or financial troubles, acknowledged that the brand might have grown too rapidly. This pivotal moment led to a strategic re-evaluation of the product range and retail network, as Shinola returned to its roots.

The Canfield Speedway 44mm Automatic Chronograph, a limited-edition timepiece equipped with a tachymeter and customised Sellita movement.

With Cobbina joining Bedrock, fresh perspectives for Shinola emerged. His background in politics and national sports prepared him to rally people around a singular vision. Amidst Covid, shifting economic landscapes, and changing customer expectations, he says he has kept everyone focused on “the North Stars”. He reiterates that Shinola has reoriented itself to cater to watch enthusiasts.

The Runwell Chrono, with a polished gold PVD case and two gold-toned sub-dials. It features a quartz movement - hand-assembled in Detroit with Swiss and other imported parts.

Today, the brand exudes renewed vigour, particularly in tourist-heavy cities like New York, Washington DC, Chicago, and Los Angeles. Cobbina sees this as a sign of strong reception from overseas customers. He says, “We feel good now, after 10 years – better than we did three years in – that we can grow efficiently and effectively in London, Tokyo, and other places that very much care about watches. We are ready to expand again.”

Shinola operates 21 brand boutiques across the country at present and boasts over 200 points of sale through retail partners, as per its website. The business employs approximately 400 individuals. From humble beginnings, aiming to offer 100 well-paying jobs in America (a milestone achieved by 2014), to reaching a peak of 500, the company has upheld its commitment.

Uniquely American - the Way Forward

Crafting American watches has become a recurring theme in recent times, championed by both niche brands and industry titans like Timex. Shinola, however, deserves recognition for being the first, and still the only, large-scale watchmaking operation in the United States in decades. With its hat in the ring on the global stage, Shinola is working to differentiate itself by creating watches of increasing quality that appeal to enthusiasts, telling stories rooted in its homeland.

Cobbina asserts, “In our minds, that’s what ‘uniquely American’ means in the watch category. We feel we have an opportunity to really take over, and I’m taking some steps toward that.” As Shinola enters its second decade with over a million watches to its name, the legacy of Detroit watchmaking is only beginning to unfold.