Watchmaking in the USA


The rebirth of Cornell Watch Company

June 2024


The rebirth of Cornell Watch Company

Despite its brief existence some 150 years ago, this Chicago company seemed to wield a tremendous influence - arguably, among other things, giving an early impulse to ... the Japanese watch industry! Its compelling narrative has captivated John Warren, who’s determined to resurrect a forgotten trailblazer of American horology.

T

he zenith of 19th-century American horology marked a transformative period, reshaping the very gears of Swiss watchmaking. Its pioneering adoption of interchangeable parts and streamlined processes spurred the transition from artisanal to industrial practices in Europe. Amidst this fervour, a lesser-known tale unfolded, one that left an indelible mark on an unexpected frontier: Japan.

John Warren, a practicing lawyer, and avid collector of pocket watches, has peeled back the layers of history, unearthing forgotten chapters of America’s innovation and influence. He points to Japan’s first domestically produced pocket watch, developed using American technology and manufacturing equipment, as evidence of Cornell Watch Company’s unsung contribution.

Panerai and Ferrari

The 31-year old Chicagoan has been deeply drawn by the company’s footprint. His findings, published by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), highlight the crucial role of Cornell’s ‘intellectual capital’ – embodied in its former key employee who arrived in Osaka at the dawn of a new century – in establishing mechanised watch production beyond American shores.

Panerai and Ferrari

The American horological lineage

This revelation not only reignites the glory of the American industrial system, which advanced precision timekeeping worldwide, but also firmly places Cornell among the pioneers of this legacy. Fuelled by a profound appreciation for this heritage, Warren has reincorporated Cornell Watch Company at its birthplace, with a mission to revitalise American watchmaking.

John Warren, CEO and Head of Design of Cornell Watch Company
John Warren, CEO and Head of Design of Cornell Watch Company

To achieve this ambitious goal, the company has enlisted the expertise of none other than revered horologist Roland G. Murphy and his eponymous atelier for private-label production. This collaboration marks a first for RGM in over three decades (read our article on the RGM brand here), thanks to a perfect synergy of ethos. As Murphy puts it, “I like the original company’s history, I like the classic style and all that [Warren envisions for the product and the brand]. We’re reviving it.”

The 1870 CE employs the same timeless techniques as the original Cornell Watch Company railroad pocket watches of the 1870s while offering the modern precision of an automatic movement.
The 1870 CE employs the same timeless techniques as the original Cornell Watch Company railroad pocket watches of the 1870s while offering the modern precision of an automatic movement.
©Alexander Chen

Tracing back to 1870, Cornell Watch Company was founded by real estate developer Paul Cornell and watchmaker J.C. Adams (the latter of whom was also involved in starting what would become the renowned Elgin company). Though its initial operation in Chicago, Illinois, was short-lived, shuttering in 1873, the company was credited for its contributions to railroad watches and upgrading American-made stem-winding timepieces.

Warren underscores Cornell’s visionary pursuit of a personal tool watch boasting railroad accuracy standards: “Paul Cornell was critical in connecting a lot of the lines that went through the entire country and he saw a great investment opportunity to create a really precise pocket watch.” He adds, “The company was started during an interesting time – which I liken to the dotcom bubble – with this cutting-edge technology [that revolutionised timekeeping] when there was no standardised time in the U.S., and time zones didn’t exist.”

The 33-jewel Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 automatic movement features a micro-rotor and boasts an 86-hour power reserve.
The 33-jewel Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 automatic movement features a micro-rotor and boasts an 86-hour power reserve.
©Atom Moore

The 21st-century reincarnation

To say that Warren is obsessed with Cornell wouldn’t be an understatement. “I have been collecting pocket watches for over 15 years now. We may have the world’s largest collection of Cornell pocket watches,” he proudly shares. Transforming his passion into a family endeavour, Warren works alongside his wife, an investment banker who manages finances, and his father, who acts as an advisor, while he spearheads the company’s direction and creative efforts.

Part of Warren's collection of Cornell pocket watches.
Part of Warren’s collection of Cornell pocket watches.

Yet, this modern-day owner remains mindful not to dwell too much on Cornell’s distant past, despite the brand’s website meticulously chronicling 19th-century horological milestones. “It is not our history,” he asserts, reiterating that the brand is on its own journey with a new narrative. “Although we use the influence of the pocket watch in our design, it’s important to remember that the Cornell Watch Company never made a wristwatch.”

Cornell partners with Velle Alexander for leather straps, entirely handcrafted in their Minneapolis studio using American alligator from premier tanneries.
Cornell partners with Velle Alexander for leather straps, entirely handcrafted in their Minneapolis studio using American alligator from premier tanneries.
©Alexander Chen

Thus, the artistic legacy that originated on the American railroad tracks now finds expression in the 1870 CE (Classic Enamel), a 39mm time-only automatic watch. Each piece, in a nod to traditional watchmaking, showcases RGM’s hallmark quality and signature artistry, from the grand feu enamel dial and flame-blued hands to the hand-finishing on the case and the Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 calibre with a micro-rotor.

The inaugural run of 10 pieces, priced at $10,750 to reflect its craftsmanship and artisanal scale, lays the foundation for future dial variants, new colours and case materials. “Given the design cues similar to those of pocket watches, precious metal suits them very well, so we plan to introduce versions in yellow gold and rose gold,” Warren reveals, signalling entry into higher price points.

By setting up for organic growth, the business ensures that each timepiece bears the fruit of its commitment to excellence. The development of the 1870 CE took over two years, entailed five prototypes, and required a $200,000 investment before the brand even took its first breath. Warren emphasises that the value delivered transcends the costs of perfectionism, which are not passed to the customer: “It’s never been about margins or cutting costs; it’s always about creating an uncompromising product.”

The rear view reveals RGM's in-house hand decoration, including the brushed solid gold plaque on the micro-rotor, radial brushing on the bridges, and perlage on the mainplate.
The rear view reveals RGM’s in-house hand decoration, including the brushed solid gold plaque on the micro-rotor, radial brushing on the bridges, and perlage on the mainplate.
©Alexander Chen

Fostering a new future

“It is an enthusiast watch through and through,” Warren remarks, recognising the limitations imposed by RGM’s production capacity. “We’ve had offers to produce in Switzerland, but that’s not what we want to do. We intend to stay working with RGM. We think Roland’s one of the best in the business,” he says, highlighting RGM’s fully integrated manufacturing capabilities in contrast to the disjointed supply chains facing most American watch companies.

Warren: “For our next variant, we're still using grand feu enamel, but we will go in a different direction with the colour.”
Warren: “For our next variant, we’re still using grand feu enamel, but we will go in a different direction with the colour.”
©Alexander Chen

For Warren, the revival of Cornell Watch Company is a purpose-driven venture, playing its part to reignite the flame of American horology. The company has pledged to donate a portion of sales proceeds to student scholarships provided by the Horological Society of New York. Moreover, it is compiling a free, open-access directory of American watchmakers, technicians, and component manufacturers to bolster the domestic network.

These ambitious initiatives signify the company’s optimism about the potential to help rebuild the industry. “It’s going to take decades. But I think it’s possible and it’s about creating small steps in making progress,” Warren asserts with conviction. Reflecting on their dedication while balancing demanding day jobs, he muses, “We’re doing it because we love American watchmaking. It’d be a dream to do this full-time – it means I’d never work a day in my life. It’d be wonderful.”

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