$50,000-watch debut featuring an all-star Swiss production cast and a tennis ace as an ambassador may sound like the tried-and-tested launch formula of the European old guard. In fact, it’s the strategy employed by Fleming, a new independent brand breaking out of the United States with no previous watchmaking background. Despite being helmed by a “Zennial” (the cusp of the Generation Z and Millennial) watch enthusiast, Thomas Fleming’s eponymous brand defies preconceptions.

Among watch marques hailing from across the pond, bar artisan watchmakers, Fleming sits alone below hyper-brands such as Jacob & Co., far removed from major brands, but well above the many mid-to-low-range microbrands. The second-time founder states he didn’t aim to position the company in any particular segment, but only to bring a product to market without financial or design constraints.

Thomas Fleming, founder and creative director

What does Fleming have to say?

That said, Fleming’s inaugural series is not about heady, fantastical creations with a backstory involving space or rekindling childhood dreams. Instead, it lands on solid ground with a traditional dress watch – which Fleming considers a style almost every watchmaker has tackled at some point – in a modern and slightly edgy expression. “I felt I had good ideas for new interpretations of existing watches like this,” he elaborates, describing the product philosophy as “a new concept and a new take on a concept.”

The result is an exquisite 38.5-millimeter, time-only watch featuring a distinctive blend of patterns and textures in three metal and dial pairings, expertly realised by Comblémine (Voutilainen’s world-class dial manufacture). The svelte 9-millimeter case, featuring a layered architecture crafted by Efteor (a boutique casemaker supplying the likes of Greubel Forsey), comes in platinum, rose gold, and watchmaking’s latest exotic alloy, tantalum. Limited to 41 pieces, Series 1 boasts an exclusive hand-wound twin-barrel movement by Chronode, overseen by technical master Jean-François Mojon.

Platinum, available in 9 pieces, features a guilloché dial in golden amber and rich brown with wave and petal patterns.

Fleming adds, “Much of what we’re making isn’t something the market currently offers.” Ensuring commercial viability was essential before embarking on the venture, as he notes, “If you hope people buy into it, you need to have a viable business plan too.”

It’s all in the process

Conversing with Thomas Fleming feels like encountering a Zen Buddhist. There is nothing imposing or overzealous about this mild-mannered brand owner. He focuses on the process, enjoying the journey to create value rather than the result. “You can’t control what other people think or how they react, or really whether anything is a success or not. That’s out of your hands,” he says.

Rose gold, limited to 7 pieces, creates a textural interplay of a carbon grey guilloché outer track with a hammered champagne centre and subdial.

Naming the brand after himself was not an egotistical move but “the most authentic” approach, providing a tangible connection and a relatable face to the company. “I am introverted by nature, so it’s not always the most comfortable for me to be public,” he admits. Yet, he finds it rewarding to share his story from falling for watches to envisioning the brand’s future. He opens with “I’ve been an enthusiast for about a decade now”, which is a significant portion of his 27 years, highlighting his deep-rooted fascination for horology.

The caseback displays a 7-day power reserve indicator and twin ratchet wheels carved into the Fleming logo.

As Fleming’s appreciation grew, he discarded the notion that top craftsmanship must include heritage and in-house manufacture. Inspired by independent innovators, he began conceiving something uniquely his own during the pandemic.

Fluid identity transcending borders

“We do all the design ourselves; we’re sort of a creative lab. Then we work with partners, similar to how MB&F and Ming operate and deal with suppliers,” he explains. Pivotal to the brand’s initial following, he has also brought on board COO James Kong, a watch photographer with deep connections in the New York collector community.

Attracting a diverse clientele, Fleming notes that buyers range from as young as 24 to people in their 70s, “There’s honestly no common thread between them except that they’re enthusiasts.” Rejecting strict labels, he says, “We don’t identify as an American brand, because everything is always dynamic.”

Tantulum, an edition of 25, showcases the beauty of depth with a dark blue aventurine centre and subdial framed by frosted platinum.

Fleming’s only concern is to bring in the best people for each aspect of the watch, regardless of location. As such, future watches might involve work from Japan, Germany, America, or anywhere else. “We’re very open to doing things in different places if the person best suited to it is in a different part of the world. It’s not about making a Swiss-made watch constraining it to geography.”

The ultimate proposition

As global consumer appetites for high-end watches plateau, is there room for another virgin brand pitching a big-ticket value proposition? Launching the first watch with a Swiss ensemble and every element finessed came at a premium, but Fleming’s artisanal scale may enhance its appeal to ultra-high spenders.

“We’re making just a couple of dozen watches. If we do really well over time, maybe we’ll produce a few hundred – which is sort of our sweet spot – there’ll be buyers at those quantities,” he reasons. “For those who are open to supporting a new brand like us, it’s more about whether the product, the brand story, and everything overall are compelling.”

Judging by Series 1’s sold-out success, Fleming’s approach is validated. “It’s really great. I’m very grateful for the reaction we’ve received,” he reflects. “We’re not owed any of this. I wouldn’t take any of it for granted. Creating Fleming is really fun and meaningful to me, and I’m thankful for anyone who is hearing us out and learning about us, even if they don’t end up liking it.”

But Fleming has more up his sleeve. “We have ideas for totally new types of watches in the next series,” Fleming teases. Future plans will see three distinct collections of watches, all designed for versatility and wearability. The second series features sporty yet elegant bracelet watches, including waterproof divers. The third will introduce lightweight watches with a novel approach, set to break from the typical industry playbook.

In a classic case of ‘if you don’t ask, you don’t get’, Fleming approached Casper Ruud, ranked ATP world number 2 in 2022, unsolicited to propose a partnership. Ruud has since taken a stake in the brand.

Partnering with Norwegian tennis star Casper Ruud and other athletes, Fleming watches will be field tested in real-world scenarios, key to both storytelling and product development. “With Casper, it’s a long-term relationship as we want to be involved in various initiatives,” says Fleming. “First and foremost, we’re focused on creating the best watches we can.”

In the end, he believes watches should serve as emotional vessels for stories that forge powerful bonds with their owners, compelling them to keep coming back. This is the ultimate Fleming proposition.