hile no longer so prominent, Ebel is still a respected figure in an industry that loves nothing more than to see an old name revived. During its heyday under the enlightened management of Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of the brand’s founders, Ebel dominated the sport-luxe segment and was even producing Cartier watches. Then it was sold, first to Intercorp in 1994, then LVMH in 1999 and finally Movado Group, which became Ebel’s new owner in 2004.

Its strategy has been equally shape-shifting, ultimately centring on “feminine elegance” – women make up 80% of its clientele – and key markets such as Germany and the Gulf countries.

Women make up 80% of Ebel’s customers. The brand produces mainly quartz models in gold-steel.

Ebel broke into the sports segment in the 1970s and 1980s. Now sport-luxe is the industry’s dominant trend.

©Archives Europa Star

Now the scene is set for the brand to win back a share of its old stomping ground, namely the men’s sport-luxe segment that currently dominates the industry. Flavio Pellegrini, President of Ebel and Concord as well as President Europe at Movado Group, is exploring this segment anew with the relaunched 1911 collection (named for the year the brand was established). We sat down for a chat.

The new Ebel 1911 Marine measures 42mm in diameter, with a galvanic blue dial, unidirectional rotating bezel and rated 200 metres for water-resistance. It is fitted with a Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement.

Europa Star: How would you describe today’s Ebel?

Flavio Pellegrini: In 2016 Efraim Grinberg [owner of the Movado Group] asked me to take over management of the brand, which is mainly centred around a female audience. We identified several core attributes that could create new openings, the Sport Classic being the main one. Originally launched in 1977, it was relaunched in 2017 as a way back into the sport-luxe segment.

It was an instant hit, at a higher price point than our traditional collections. Whereas the average price at Ebel is CHF 2,500, the best-selling model in this collection, by quite some margin, is the gold-steel version at CHF 4,800. We’re a legitimate name in the sport-luxe segment and are using this to move upmarket. The Sport Classic accounts for 60% of our sales and is carried by high-end retailers such as Wempe.

An article on Pierre-Alain Blum and Ebel sports watches, published by Europa Star in 1980.

©Archives Europa Star

Is the relaunch of the 1911 part of that logic?

Yes. Having been delayed slightly by Covid, the relaunch of the 1911 completes this redefining of Ebel’s fundamentals. It will be a second, solid flagship line, alongside the Sport Classic and at a similar price point, between CHF 3,000 and CHF 6,000. We started deliveries of the 1911 in October and demand is so strong we’re already having to review our shipping procedures.

“Alongside the Sport Classic, the 1911 completes this redefining of Ebel’s fundamentals.”

New 34mm Ebel 1911 Grande

Even so, Ebel isn’t the shining star it once was, despite the huge popularity of sport-luxe models. What will this take? That vintage Ebel watches command higher prices on the booming pre-owned market?

What we really need is better visibility. Ebel is present at around 700 points of sale and we have the potential for even greater global exposure. Next year we plan to develop the brand’s presence in China, where we currently have a mainly online presence and are not yet represented by the Movado Group’s subsidiary there. In the US, we’ve also focused on selling online but at one point we will have to jump back into the bricks and mortar network. The advantage of being a “sleeping beauty” is that you decide how you want to wake up. We’re reaping what we’ve sown: Ebel is a very profitable brand. We’re under no financial pressure.

“Ebel is a very profitable brand. We’re under no financial pressure.”

Ebel Sport Classic Lady Stardust

You’re part of a group that specialises in high-volume fashion watches whereas Ebel wants to be known as a legacy brand. Is this a drawback?

We have far more independence than before, meaning we can move forwards with confidence. The group’s owner has lost none of his enthusiasm for the brand he acquired almost 20 years ago and we have the market on our side. Ebel has quite a unique personality and it’s important to convey this personality properly. To come back to an earlier question, we’re seeing a steady rise in value on the pre-owned market, particularly for watches fitted with Calibre 137, although we’ve yet to reach auction prices.

We had to make a complete reassessment of the market and collections that were no longer appropriate. That was a fundamental condition, given that a lot of liquidators were playing around with the brand. We’re now done working on inventory, which is vital for secondary market value. Before prices can rise, you have to stop them falling.

Where are your main markets?

Based on figures per country, Germany. Per region, the Middle East. In fact we recently opened a boutique in Kuwait whose architecture borrows from Le Corbusier’s Villa Turque in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where we have our head office. Ebel has longstanding ties with the Middle East. Many of the reigning families wore Ebel watches in the 1980s and 1990s, and an Ebel watch is still appreciated as a business gift or an official gift, because it is a sign of quality. Our gold-steel models with precious stones are particularly sought-after, as is mother-of-pearl.

“We’re now done working on inventory, which is vital for secondary market value. Before prices can rise, you have to stop them falling.”

Ebel Sport Classic Lady Malachite

Who is the typical Ebel customer?

Let me give you three figures: 80% of our customers are women; 80% of our production is quartz and 80% of our sales are for gold-steel. We aim to win over a more masculine audience thanks to the 1911 line, which Pierre-Alain Blum designed for Ebel’s 75th anniversary in 1986 – also the year we bought Villa Turque. Back then it was powered by an El Primero movement and Don Johnson wore one in Miami Vice! We couldn’t complete our repositioning without the 1911.

Ebel 1911 Grande gold-steel with ochre mother-of-pearl dial and 18k yellow gold bezel

How have you reworked it?

As with the Sport Classic, we’ve stayed as true to the original as possible. One of its most distinguishing features is the flat bezel. Every watch is supplied with an additional strap. The automatic version is positioned at CHF 2,800 and the quartz version at CHF 2,150. There are also women’s versions in gold-steel with a mother-of-pearl dial.

What benefits does the group bring in terms of logistics?

We share a supply chain with Movado and Concord, which are the group’s other Swiss-Made brands. The technical side is specific to Ebel. We work with outside partners and assemble our watches in Switzerland.

The Ebel 1911 Grande in 18k yellow gold and stainless steel has a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour-markers and a diamond-set bezel.

What future do you predict for Ebel?

We will profit from the sport-luxe trend and the coherence we’ve brought to our offering. Retailers are looking for new partnerships as certain brands pull out of traditional distribution, and we have the right profile. We’re also an interesting alternative to those models that are only available through wait lists. Sales have rapidly picked up since Covid, at around 25,000 units a year. We hadn’t seen that kind of volume at Ebel in ten years.

One last word: Ebel has traditionally sponsored tennis. With so many other brands now sponsoring tournaments, do you plan to pick up where you left off?

We already have. We sponsor four tennis tournaments, mainly ladies’, in Lausanne, Montreux, Bad Homburg and Hamburg on the WTA and ATP circuit, and will continue in this vein.