et’s set the scene. It’s 1945 and the British Ministry of Defence has just tasked Studio Underd0g to make an accurate and reliable timepiece to be used by the armed forces in World War II.

...The savvy among you may have realised that the above didn’t really happen, but the design process did start based on this theoretical brief. Many field watches share similar traits, defined by the requirements of their use.

The truth is, in the heat of battle, soldiers typically wouldn’t have had the time to admire the mechanical movement through a display case-back, so a solid case-back was required. This also helped to improve the water resistance of the watch. To further improve the water resistance, the case and bezel were often manufactured from a single blank.

The combination of drilled lugs and a pass-through strap meant that even if one of the spring-bars failed during a tough day at the office battlefield, the watch wouldn’t be lost. Legibility was of the utmost importance; knowing the time at a glance, day or night, allowed soldiers to stay focused on the job at hand.

Throughout the design and development process, Studio Underd0g adhered to these requirements but as always, a bit of fun was also in order when it came to the dial design.

It wouldn’t be a Studio Underd0g watch without a playful twist. The studio has used current-day machining techniques and materials to create a sandwich dial like no other. The base dial features seven layers of custom-made Super-LumiNova pigment. The application of this pigment is incredibly time-consuming as each layer must dry before the next is applied.

Mounted on top of the base dial, is a 1mm sapphire disc, atop which the branding, minute track and Arabic numerals are printed. Once these two dials are affixed to one another via two slotted headed pins, it creates a chunky dial with real depth.

In daylight, the printing details appear to float, casting a shadow on the lower base dial. As the watch moves around in relation to the light source, the shadows move accordingly. This results in a dynamic and ever-changing appearance.

In darkness, the printing details are backlit by the bright Super-LumiNova base dial and appear to be totally disconnected from any surface. Pretty trippy!

Pink Lem0nade

Of course, the novelties have to have something fresh and fruity. The Pink Lem0nade dial features a pink-to-yellow luminous gradient, which is an industry first as the studio proclaims. This dial uses a totally different manufacturing method compared with the other dial variations. The studio will be keeping this technique a secret, as it’s something that took them quite some time to figure out.

Tiffany Steffany Blue

You’d have had to live under a rock to miss the explosion of popularity of a particular blue-green shade of pastel that took the watch world by storm last year. Now it’s the Underd0g’s turn... Instead of opting for the trusty Pantone 1837 C, they’ve chosen a beautiful sky-blue dial. Naturally, they’ve called this colourway, Steffany Blue.

Full Mo0n

At first, some enthusiasts may be surprised that this understated, somewhat muted watch is a Studio Underd0g, but all that changes with the flick of a switch... A light-switch that is. The Full Mo0n variation is so bright, that it probably wouldn’t be much use on the battlefield as the enemy would spot you a mile away.

Midnight

For the final watch in this quartet, the studio decided to flip the whole concept on its head, and opted for an all-black base dial, with luminous hour markers and numerals. The light refractions create the appearance of a black polish finish.

Championing British Independents

It’s incredibly exciting to see a resurgence of British brands in the horological space, and the studio is playing its part in helping this sector grow this year. As of 2023, not only are Studio Underd0g watches assembled in Great Britain, but the studio has also partnered with two British independent businesses:

The Strap Tailor: in collaboration with David Richards, aka The Strap Tailor, a beautifully supple handmade Epsom calfskin (or suede) strap is offered as part of this new introduction. These luxurious straps are made with a unique multi-step tanning process that takes almost a month to complete. The lining is Haas Zermatt which is comfortable on the wrist and resistant to sweat and moisture.

Horologium: in partnership with Horologium, the workshop will carry out a full independent QC inspection on all watches before they’re shipped out from the UK. The process includes demagnetisation, accuracy / rate review (3 positions) and regulation wherever necessary. A report card is included with every watch.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model SKUs: Pink Lem0nade (02FSBE), Steffany Blue (02BLB), Full Mo0n (02BEBR), Midnight (02BKG)
Case dimensions: D37mm * 12mm (9.8mm excluding crystal)
Additional dimensions: 18mm Lug width, 46mm Lug to lug
Architecture: Two-part case construction, screw down case-back and a signed crown
Material: 316L Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM

Movement
Movement type: Sellita Manual Winding SW210-1
Beat Rate: 28,800 (4hz)
Winding crown: Clockwise wind system with hacking
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 42h

Leather Strap
Band: 18mm tapered to 16mm strap by The Strap Tailor
Spring bars: Quick-release
Buckle: Signed 316L stainless steel
Pass-through strap
Band: 18mm fabric strap with stainless steel hardware
Spring bars: Standard

Warranty
Term: A limited 2-year warranty with Horologium