ne size never truly fits all – and with this in mind, Czapek presents its Quai des Bergues model in a new, 40.5mm case. The steel case retains all of the stylistic signatures of the Quai des Bergues case – with a slight refinement of the case-side recesses in order to incorporate the movement (Calibre SXH1) – and a subtle change to the slope of the lugs to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.
“The two existing sizes of the Quai des Bergues have always been well received,” says Czapek CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. “But, among our community of enthusiasts, we’ve had many comments and discussions about creating a perfect ‘Goldilocks’ size in between – one that is adaptable and elegant, looks both dressy and sporty and has a great presence on wrists of all sizes. The design of the case is very organic and fluid – and for that, I pay tribute to the biomechanical style of the artist H.R.Giger [designer of Alien] whose work has always fascinated me.”
To complement the new case size, Czapek, together with its dial-making partner Metalem, has developed an entirely new guilloché pattern. They have named it Guilloché ‘Double Soleil’, after the parhelion phenomenon, an optical illusion that appears under certain atmospheric conditions as a luminous spot on one or both sides of the sun. Also known colloquially as ‘sun dogs’, parhelia occur when the sun shines through thin cirrus clouds composed of hexagonal ice crystals, which refract the rays, rather like the effect of a prism. This spectacular and rare phenomenon most often occurs in winter, when the sun is low in the sky.
The starting point for the new pattern was a discussion about the Maison’s proprietary Ricochet Guilloché. Through a process of iteration, with greater emphasis on vertical symmetry and straighter, deeper cuts, the new Double Soleil pattern achieves a bolder and more contemporary look. And it plays an intriguing visual trick: are the lines radiating outwards like sunrays from behind the sub-dials or are they being drawn inwards? The dial is offered in a choice of Deep Blue or Tuxedo Black.
In addition to the new guillochage, the movement (manually wound, with a 7-day power reserve) has been refreshed. “We revised the movement last year by open-working the bridges,” says de Roquemaurel. “Like the new dial guillochage, this is very much in keeping with our desire always to display the beauty of craftsmanship – to honour the hand of man – which is the essence of haute horlogerie and reveals more than time.”
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
FUNCTIONS
- Hours & minutes
- Small second at 7h30
- Power reserve indication with weekdays at 4h30
MOVEMENT
- Calibre SXH1: Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement
- Power reserve > 168 hours (7 days) on two barrel-springs
- Variable inertia balance wheel
- Frequency: 3 Hz - 21,600 VpH
- Diameter: 32 mm - 14 lines 1/4
- Height: 4,75 mm
- Number of components: 160
- Number of jewels: 31
FINISH
- Bridges open on gear train
- Double open ratchets, sandblasted bridges and main plate
- Heat-blued screws, bevelling, final hand-chamfering, circular graining and snailing on wheels
CASE
- Stainless steel case
- 40.5 mm diameter
- Lug to lug (north to south): 47.67 mm
- Thickness: 11.9 mm (9.5 mm perceived)
- Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
- Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
- Water-resistance: 50 meters (5 atm)
DIAL
- Deep Blue “Secret Alloy” dial
- Unique and exclusive Czapek guilloche Double Soleil design inspired by the 1930’s Art Deco era
- Czapek elongated indexes
- Rhodium plated arrow steel hands
BRACELET
- Alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle