hree limited-edition Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral timepieces represent a bold, free-spirited side of Carl F. Bucherer. Just 18 examples of each watch have been created, combining high complications with extraordinary craftsmanship across three electrifying colourways.
A CFB manufacture movement – one of its most technically accomplished, featuring two peripherally mounted complications – is set in an 18 K rose gold case and paired with an innovative laser-cut dial and matching gemstone-covered bezel, connecting watchmaking prowess with the jeweller’s art.
Available in distinctive blue, green, and purple finishes, these expressions of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral represent the culmination of CFB’s recent exploration of colour and embrace of contemporary style.
At a glance, these high-saturation aesthetics lend the pieces a unique energy, aimed at watch aficionados who want to express themselves, confidently and unapologetically, without compromising on technical mastery. As such, these striking watches represent 21st-century pioneering values and the pure freedom of expression epitomised by today’s urban lives. This look, feel, and spirit also fuels CFB’s own ongoing evolution, which the brand calls ’Exploring Time’.
Inspired by the dynamic symbolism of blue skies in the city, the restorative feel of its green spaces, and its sense of unbridled optimism channeled by the colour purple, the three hues of the newest versions of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral are lent additional sophistication through the craftsmanship of the dial. Here, a laser-patterning technique has decorated the curved surface with repeat formations of miniature pyramids, creating a new and unique three-dimensional guilloche effect.
These patterns were galvanically refined before being coated in a semi-transparent coloured lacquer which concentrates pigment in the “valleys” between each pyramid. The combination of these innovative processes results in an elaborate dégradé effect that makes the dial almost shimmer as it catches the light. In addition, the dial’s 11 indices mark out the hours with 0.6-carat vvs baguette-cut diamonds, creating extra sparkle.
Beyond the dial, attention is drawn to the eye-catching bezel. It contains 40 baguette-cut gemstones – either 5.1-carat sapphires, 4.7-carat tsavorites or 3.5-carat amethysts, depending on the model – each naturally occurring and coloured. Hand-selected, these match the colour of the dial – in itself a stunning feat of achievement and a stand-out design feature that adds to the watch’s exuberant feel.
A finely tailored hand-stitched strap, also colour-matched to the dial and bezel, has been created from recycled PET, emphasising CFB’s environmental awareness and the importance of integrating sustainable materials throughout its portfolio. Each timepiece is constructed within an 18 K rose gold case – a colour chosen for its contemporary elegance – complemented by rose-gold-plated hands.
Beneath the surface of each watch is one of CFB’s most intricate movements: the CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, entirely designed, developed, and assembled in house. Launched in 2018, it is the first movement ever to combine a peripheral automatic winding system with a peripherally mounted floating tourbillon.
The winding system is driven by a bidirectional oscillating weight which provides enough mechanical energy to create a power reserve of 65 hours. The floating tourbillon – a CFB signature mechanism – is so-called as its peripheral mounting, neither mounted on the main plate nor connected with an overlying bridge, makes the complication appear to float in space.
Samir Merdanovic, CFB’s Chief Technology Officer, says: “The T3000 movement is one of CFB’s crowning glories. The peripheral mounting of two such intricate complications is astonishing from a mechanical perspective – and allows for an unobscured view of the movement through the case back – while the floating appearance of our tourbillon lends the piece an unbelievable, almost magical quality.”
The movement boasts outstanding accuracy. Comprising 189 individual parts, it includes a balance wheel regulated by eccentric screws, or masselottes, that oscillates at a frequency of 3 hertz, or 21,600 beats per hour, while the escapement is made from silicon, reducing friction, allowing the system to operate without lubrication, and increasing the power reserve. A further distinctive feature is the stop-seconds function, which allows for the rotation of the tourbillon cage to be stopped. This means the watch can be synchronised with a standard time and thus set to the second.
The Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral perfectly encapsulates the essence of CFB’s Manero family of watches: a collection that exemplifies functionality, innovation, and contemporary design, created for highly discerning individuals Exploring Time in the world’s most dynamic urban centers. As such, it makes for a profoundly modern expression of CFB, a Swiss watchmaker with more than 135 years of heritage.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Reference number: 00.10928.03.54.11
MOVEMENT
Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, diameter 36.5 mm, height 4.6 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
FUNCTIONS
Floating tourbillon, stop second, hour, minute, small seconds
CASE
18 K rose gold, bezel set with 40 blue sapphires (baguette cut, 5.1 carat), domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m), diameter 43.10 mm, height 11.57 mm
DIAL
Blue with 3D guilloche pattern applied by laser, 11 diamonds (TW vvs, baguette cut, 0.6 carat)
HANDS
Rose-gold-plated wedge hands
STRAP
Blue textile strap with quick-release system, hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp
LIMITATION
18 pieces