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$ < CHF 1,000 | $$ < CHF 5,000 | $$$ < CHF 20,000 | $$$$ < CHF 50,000 | $$$$$ > CHF 50,000
Bovet x Pininfarina Aperto 1
Bovet rises to the challenge of merging the traditional technique of skeletonisation with Pininfarina’s aesthetic language in a haute horlogerie watch that is as sleek and stylish as the famed Italian studio’s designs. The in-house manual-winding movement that powers the Aperto 1 is on full show, revealing the intricacy of its wheels, its subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock and, at 9 o’clock, the indicator for its seven-day power reserve. Grade 5 titanium confers ultra-lightness to the 42mm case. Contemporary high-end watchmaking at its best. $$$$$
Chronoswiss Delphis Sapphire
This new Delphis Sapphire reiterates key elements from the original model: jumping hours, retrograde minutes and the oversized “onion” crown. However, its most impressive feature has to be the innovative dial in royal blue sapphire, finished with a traditional guilloché pattern. Seventeen parts make up the complex 42mm case in stainless steel. Inside beats the in-house automatic C.6004 movement, co-developed with La Joux-Perret and fitted with a skeletonised tungsten rotor. A 50-piece limited edition. $$$$
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen
The Datograph may be just 25 years old, but it exudes the timeless charm of the finest watchmaking. The model introduced this year features a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minutes counter, a perpetual calendar, moon phases and a tourbillon with stop seconds, presented for the first time in the brand’s exclusive Honeygold® and as a “Lumen” version, limited to 50 pieces. The enhanced L952.4 in-house movement, comprising 684 parts, brings this horological masterwork to life. Boasting warm tones by day and luminous accents by night, this is a timepiece for the true collector. $$$$$
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
LVMH revives another great name, that of Daniel Roth, with this tribute to the tourbillon ref. 2187/C187, the very first model from this talented watchmaker whose introduction in 1989 marked the debut of the independent brand. As well as reprising Roth’s characteristic “double ellipse” case, LVMH is launching the watch using the subscription method that helped finance the original brand. Developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the DR001 movement features a tourbillon at 6 o’clock which carries a three-armed hand to display seconds on a scale formed by three arched sections. Hours and minutes are shown on a subdial at 12 o’clock, set into an 18K gold dial decorated with Clous de Paris guillochage. A watch in the finest haute horlogerie tradition. $$$$$
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
The Duomètre is the embodiment of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s pursuit of ever greater precision. Introduced in 2007, its principal characteristic is the two barrels which supply power to two independent gear trains, united by a single regulating organ: one mechanism is reserved for timekeeping and the other drives the watch’s complications, thereby ensuring superior precision. Joining the collection is a Duomètre Heliotourbillon Perpetual in 18K rose gold. Thirty-four individual parts make up the new case, which measures 44mm. The Calibre 388 powers a new tourbillon that rotates on three axes, a perpetual calendar, a large date, moon phases and two power-reserve indicators (one for each barrel). A reminder of why Jaeger-LeCoultre is known to all as the Grande Maison. $$$$$
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Plasma Diamant D’Avant-Garde
Carrying on from its pink-tinted model, TAG Heuer has once again used avant-garde technology to create a precious version of its iconic Carrera. This time, the 4.8 carats of lab-grown diamonds include two yellow stones: one forming the TAG Heuer shield on the dial and the other, weighing 1.3 carats, for the crown. The 36mm white gold case frames a polycrystalline dial: diamond crystals grown as a single entity using the brand’s Plasma technology. Twelve indexes are set with white baguette-cut lab-grown diamonds. Visible through the sapphire back is the automatic Calibre 7. Built on a Sellita SW300 base, it delivers 56 hours of power reserve. $$$$$
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
Three years after its launch, the Chronomaster Sport collection gets its first gem-set model, with case and bracelet in rose gold. Displaying elapsed time with one-tenth of a second precision, it boasts a fabulous jewelled bezel set with baguette-cut white diamonds, black spinels, and grey and blue sapphires. Zenith’s signature colours also feature on the three subdials. They stand out beautifully against the meteorite dial, which has been given a warm gold hue. At the core of this Chronomaster Sport is the El Primero 3600 column-wheel chronograph calibre. $$$$$
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon Tamara Ralph
From its home in Le Brassus, the venerable manufacture presents a limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon in collaboration with couture designer Tamara Ralph. The choice of 18K rose gold with a Frosted Gold finish brings texture to the 38.5mm case while the multi-layered sunray satin dial deploys luxurious rose, bronze, gold and cognac shades. Nineteen brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the flying tourbillon. This couture creation, which is limited to 102 pieces, is fitted with a bronze-toned large-scale alligator strap. The movement is the manual-winding Calibre 2964. $$$$$
Bulgari Lucea
The Lucea jewellery watch collection celebrates its tenth anniversary in style. Bulgari’s command of high jewellery-making blends with its unique horological philosophy in this new Lucea. Rose gold and steel harmoniously combine for the case and bracelet, with diamonds on the bezel and applied hour markers. The marquetry dial is inlaid with upcycled fragments of malachite. The refinement of the case and the bracelet’s V-shaped links hint at the craftsmanship behind this gem of a watch. More than ever, Bulgari confirms its status as the “jeweller of time”. $$$$$
Hermès Cut
La Montre Hermès extends its offering with a collection that is all about nuance. The Cut plays on round shapes to create a discreet yet powerful style. Alternating polished and satin finishes lend character while details such as the bevelling on the case, the curve of the solid lugs, the original crown, decorated with a lacquered or engraved H, between 1 and 2 o’clock, and the unique font of the applied numerals provide the subtle distinctiveness and quiet luxury that characterises every Hermès creation. Available in steel or a combination of steel and rose gold, this new collection is equipped with the in-house automatic H1912 movement. $$$
Omega Constellation Meteorite
Appropriately for a range with such stellar connections, the Constellation welcomes a series of meteorite dials. Each features a unique pattern, the result of frictional heating as the extraterrestrial rock passes through Earth’s atmosphere. Omega then employs its own colour treatment technologies to create multiple gradient shades. Offered in a range of 20 models, with five choices in each of the four sizes from 25 to 41mm, in steel, two-tone or 18K Sedna gold. $$-$$$
Pequignet Moorea
Created in 1984, the Moorea is one of the cornerstones of Pequignet’s success. This 40th anniversary collection accentuates the design’s smooth, flowing lines while the signature satin-finish bracelet retains the iconic Moorea link, recognisable for the elegant polished oblong beads between the steel links. Delicate chamfers reflect the light and reveal the high level of finishing, while the slimmer, almost flat bezel dispenses with its Roman numerals. As a final flourish, the lugs return with their original “ears”. The highlight, however, is the introduction of the Calibre Initial®. Pequignet’s third in-house movement, it equips the Manufacture version with its 38.5mm case, displays the date at 6 o’clock and provides 65 hours of power reserve. $$
Gucci G-Timeless
Gucci revisits its G-Timeless collection with a 40mm size that retains the familiar motifs of a finely fluted bezel, Gucci lettering and the interlocking G. A triple-link stainless steel bracelet completes the picture. Three versions are on offer, with a blue or black dial paired with steel, and a silver dial for the two-tone version with gold-plated bezel and gold-coloured hands and indexes. The Swiss-Made automatic movement that powers all three is visible through the sapphire back. Additional versions are proposed in a 29mm diameter.. $$
Tissot PRX Damian Lillard Special Edition
This Special Edition matches the well-known features of the PRX Powermatic 80 with unique elements that reflect the personality and career of NBA All-Star player Damian Lillard. The embossed 0s on the dial reference Lillard’s jersey number; his D signature becomes the counterweight for the seconds hand and his name is engraved on the case back. Engravings around the flange – DAME, TIME, DDKK and YKWTII – all relate to Lillard’s life and story. The 40mm yellow gold PVD case houses the celebrated Powermatic automatic movement which runs for 80 hours of power reserve. $
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Vacheron Constantin’s most stylistically pure collection – the Patrimony – turns twenty. This latest interpretation comes in a 42.5mm white gold case surrounding an old-silver-toned dial. Hands and hour markers are in rose gold. The in-house 2460 R31L automatic movement drives two complications, both of which have longstanding associations with the brand: a delicate moon-phase display at 6 o’clock and, in the upper section of the dial, a retrograde date. Certified by the Poinçon de Genève, this anniversary edition is testament to the brand’s reputation for discreetly elegant timepieces. $$$$$
Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture x seconde/seconde/
French artist Romaric André – aka seconde/seconde/ – brings his disruptive mindset to a collaboration with Frederique Constant. Embracing the freedom to think differently, the brand takes the wraps off two limited editions of its Slimline Moonphase Date, with 100 pieces in steel and ten with a rose gold-tone crown and indexes. Hour markers are scattered across the dial: a comment on the human element at work inside the brand’s manufacture that also inspired the charmingly hand-drawn moon phases. A refreshingly lighthearted touch and a more than reasonable price for an in-house complication movement. $$
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpétuel
Appropriately for a leap year, Blancpain has released a perpetual calendar in its classic Villeret line. The brand is renowned for its expertise in this sophisticated mechanism, which tracks this particular whim of our calendar. The red gold of the 40mm case, distinguished by the double-stepped aesthetic of the Villeret line, is reprised by the hands and hour markers. Its warm glow contrasts with the rich green of the sunburst dial, a colour inspired by the forests around Le Brassus. Blancpain’s characteristic moon phase peeks out at 6 o’clock. Turning the case over reveals a sapphire back and, through it, the meticulous finishing, red gold honeycomb oscillating weight and silicon balance spring of the automatic 5954 movement. In addition to 72 hours of power reserve, this complex and elegant watch ensures ease of use thanks to patented under-lug correctors: the various indications are set without any need for tools; just a simple finger push. $$$$
Louis Moinet Astronef Techno
Jean-Marie Schaller, Louis Moinet’s exuberant owner and creative director, is no stranger to uncommon timepieces. This latest opus merges time-honoured watchmaking tradition with high-tech materials: namely a silicon wafer engraved with microelectronic circuits paired with an ingenious double satellite tourbillon. The result is a visual spectacle like nothing before. The two tourbillon carriages revolve around the dial, aligning every 3 minutes and 20 seconds. This mechanical synchronicity is governed by the LM 105 calibre complete with 16 ceramic ball bearings; the product of three years of intensive research. Multiple reflections from the microelectronic circuits on the dial inject techno colour into this unique piece in grade 5 titanium. $$$$$
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
Every Hublot MP watch is a boundary-breaking interpretation of haute horlogerie complications and the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is no exception. The numbers speak for themselves: 592 components, five years of R&D, two linear weights, one inclined tourbillon and a circular power-reserve indicator. Even at this level of complexity and innovation, hours, minutes, power reserve and seconds are read intuitively, top to bottom. All contained in a shiny microblasted titanium case under an ultra-complex sapphire dome that combines inclined planes across three axes. A limited edition of 50. $$$$$
SpaceOne Tellurium
After making its debut last year with the much talked-about “spaceship” model in brushed titanium for under €2,000, SpaceOne does it again. The emerging brand has launched the Tellurium, the brainchild of French designer Olivier Gamiette, priced at less than €3,000. This fascinating, futuristic space object rivets the eye while its contours demand to be touched. And it also tells the time. SpaceOne continues to deploy its singular take on chronometry at down-to-earth prices. $$
Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset Régulateur
Louis Erard continues to follow its own path and cement its vision of watchmaking. The Jura-based brand is known for its exploration of the regulator display, interpreted here through a collaboration with a leading figure of abstract art, Olivier Mosset. The result of this encounter is a monochrome watch featuring a 42mm case in sandblasted steel with black PVD treatment and a black dial with sparkling silver inlays, where three identical hands indicate (perhaps) hours, minutes and seconds. Each of the 178 timepieces in this limited edition is delivered with a red seal inscribed with the words “work of art – do not wear.” A work of art for less than CHF 4,000. $$
BA111OD CHPTR_Δ AGIL
This exclusive version of the young brand’s first in-house complication – a collaboration with La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker Olivier Mory – creates an elegant play of light between the black of the case and the warmth of the gold triangle. In typically disruptive fashion, time is shown asymmetrically by a circular minutes display combined with a hypocycloidal hours display, represented by the triangle in the foreground of the dial. Every one of the 111 numbered pieces in this limited edition sold out within hours of release on the BA111OD website. $$
Rado True Round Open Heart
Rado presents a series of Open Heart watches that reveal their beating heart through a generous figure-of-eight cutout in the dial (the number 8 carries symbolic meaning in many parts of the world). True to form, the case and the bracelet are in Rado’s signature high-tech ceramic. Functions are driven by the R734 automatic movement which is equipped with an antimagnetic Nivachron™ balance spring and finished with sunray guillochage. It delivers 80 hours of power reserve. Offered as a limited edition of 888 pieces. $$
Konstantin Chaykin Zebra
The latest Wristmon from the Russian horological inventor takes the form of the Zebra and debuts the K.33.3 automatic micro-rotor movement, the first to be designed and manufactured in Russia. This new calibre powers Chaykin’s signature “rolling eyes” module. Letters indicating the day of the week (in Russian) appear in the Zebra’s nostrils. Black carbon fibre inserts in the bezel form its stripes, with more black and white stripes on the calfskin strap. The lugs at the top of the case double up as ears. This one-off piece will surely delight fans of Chaykin’s offbeat approach to watchmaking. $$$$
Byrne Casino Series
Launched in 2022, Byrne continues to explore its innovative dial-changing concept. Every 24 hours at noon, midnight – or on demand – the GyroDial’s four pivoting cubes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock “change faces” in an almost invisible movement. Channelling the casino theme of this new model, they become a lucky number 7, playing card suits, Arabic numerals or the brand’s favourite “Ghost” numerals. A timepiece that is mechanically complex, fun… and open to customisation for enthusiasts who value the individuality of their watch. $$$-$$$$
Alexander Shorokhoff Wintergenta
Creator of artistic and imaginative watches, Alexander Shorokhoff presents a 50-piece limited edition in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Inhorgenta jewellery and watch fair. The dial of this remarkable timepiece is decorated with a finely detailed leaf design, sprinkled with diamond dust to give the impression of sunlight sparkling on freshly fallen snow. Crafted from solid sterling silver, the 39mm case is hand-engraved with a delicate scroll motif. Fitted with the La Joux-Perret G100 calibre which provides 68 hours of power reserve, the Wintergenta captures the brand’s “Art on the Wrist” philosophy in the most beautiful way possible. $$
Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind
Inspired by the world-renowned Studio Ghibli and one of its most acclaimed productions, this watch demonstrates traditional craftsmanship and Japanese watchmaking expertise. Subtle references to the anime film, such as the uniquely shaped crown, are everywhere. The blue enamel dial, under a blue-tinted sapphire dome, is the exact shade worn by Nausicaä, the titular heroine, while the emblem from one of her robes is printed at 6 o’clock. The movement is the automatic Calibre 6R51; a new version of the 6R55, without the date display, which delivers 72 hours of power reserve. The Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind edition is produced as a limited edition of 1,500. $$
Reservoir Popeye Camel
For its fourth collaboration with the spinach-scoffing hero, Reservoir presents a limited edition made for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. The celebrated sailor man finds himself riding a camel through the desert under a rich blue sky. Popeye’s spirit of adventure is emblazoned over the dial. His muscular arm points to retrograde minutes on a 240° arc – a characteristic Reservoir feature – while jumping hours appear in an aperture at 6 o’clock. This exclusive edition is further personalised with Indian numerals. Calibre RSV-240, developed by Swiss movement-maker Télôs on an LJP-G100 (La Joux-Perret) base, provides 56 hours of power reserve. $$
Gérald Genta Mickey Mouse Minute Repeater Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde
Acquired by LVMH, the brand founded by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta returns with a timepiece that stays true to its originator’s philosophy to bring a touch of whimsy to haute horlogerie complications. Contained inside the characteristic octagonal case, the in-house GG-001 movement was developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the watchful eyes of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. This new calibre incorporates a minute repeater as well as jumping hours and retrograde minutes, shown by Mickey’s outstretched arm. High-flying complications that bring a smile to the face, in the grand tradition of the master designer himself. $$$$$
Nomos Tangente 38 Date Sportbunt
The German brand’s Bauhaus-driven design ethos gets a splash of colour in the form of a 175-piece limited edition of the Tangente 38 Date, with no fewer than 31 eye-catching shades and muted tones on offer to suit your personality. Keeping time is the in-house manual-winding DUW 4101 calibre, adjusted to chronometer standard, with a date window at 6 o’clock. All the features of a Nomos watch are there, from the smooth case shape and rhodium-plated baton hour and minute hands to small seconds at the 6 o’clock position, wrapped up with an original Seventies touch. $$
Elka Watch x Ace Jewelers D-Series Essence
Following on from the Diversity limited editions, Elka Watch – whose crowdfunded relaunch in 2022 was spearheaded by Hakim El Kadiri – presents this ultra-pared-down version. Developed alongside Ace Jewelers’ Alon Ben Joseph, it embodies the very essence of the brand. The absence of dial markings (other than the Elka wordmark) focuses attention on the taut lines, open face, domed sapphire crystal and the clean-cut stainless steel case, allowing the watch’s personality to shine. But it is the deep “Amsterdam” blue that steals the show. Simplicity and purity in a 25-piece limited edition. $
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon
The Schaffhausen brand introduces its disarmingly simple perpetual calendar concept to the Streamliner collection… with not an index or logo in sight on the fumé salmon dial. Four central hands indicate hours, minutes, direct seconds and the month, while the date appears in an aperture at 4 o’clock. A fifth hand tracks the 168 hours of power reserve from the in-house manual-winding HMC812 calibre. Both the 42.3mm case and the integrated bracelet are in brushed steel for an ultramodern look. A uniquely minimalist take on the perpetual calendar, in true Moser style. $$$$$
Citizen 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Pocket Watch
Exactly 100 years ago, Citizen produced its first ever timepiece, the Calibre 16 pocket watch. Now, the Japanese brand has released a tribute to this inaugural creation. Crafted as a 100-piece limited edition, it captures the vintage model’s beauty with the benefit of contemporary elements such as the 43.5mm case in lightweight titanium and the -3/+5 seconds per day precision of the manual-winding Calibre 0270. The electroformed dial is finished with cellulose varnish for a texture that resembles aged papyrus. A fantastic example of spot-on neo-vintage. $$$
Speake Marin Ripples Dune Date The latest addition to Speake-Marin’s Ripples collection, launched to acclaim in 2022, boasts a dial whose sandy colour and undulating texture conjure up images of desert dunes. Between 1 and 2 o’clock, the rich green of the characteristic small seconds subdial forms an elegant contrast with these warm tones. The date is shown at 6 o’clock in a framed aperture. The movement inside the stainless steel case is the in-house automatic SMA03-TD, distinguished by high-end finishing and a finely decorated micro-rotor. A limited edition of 60 pieces. $$$$
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA497
One of the models released by Grand Seiko to mark the 20th anniversary of its Spring Drive Caliber 9R – a fusion of Japanese craftsmanship and state-of-the-art electronics – this limited-edition SBGA497 reprises the case shape and “snowflake” textured dial of the original. An allusion to sunrise over the snow-covered Hotaka mountains, the pink gradient of the dial gives this anniversary edition a distinctive personality. The automatic 9R65 movement provides 72 hours of power reserve as well as unrivalled accuracy of +/- 1 sec/day. Both the 41mm case and the bracelet of this 1,500-piece limited edition are made from high-intensity titanium. $$$
Orient Star M34 F8 Date Introducing the watch that will spearhead the Japanese brand’s Contemporary collection. Inspired by a Perseids meteor shower, the dial in a captivating midnight blue resembles a dreamy expanse of altocumulus clouds. A display at 12 o’clock shows the 60 hours of power reserve, with a framed aperture at 3 o’clock for the date. The F8N64 in-house movement incorporates a silicon escapement and resides inside a 316L stainless steel case that flows into an integrated bracelet. This 40mm watch is water-resistant to 100 metres. $$
Delma 1924 Tourbillon
Established 100 years ago in Longeau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, the family-owned Delma brand marks its centenary with the unveiling of the Tourbillon 1924. Calibre DT100.01 – the tourbillon movement of this 100-piece limited edition – was developed alongside Olivier Mory, co-founder of BCP Tourbillons in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Every one of its components is made in Switzerland. Manually-wound, this proprietary movement delivers 105 hours of power reserve. Visible at 6 o’clock, the large tourbillon is framed by a matte black grained dial. In all, a superb watch whose 41mm steel case is paired with an integrated steel bracelet. $$$
Nivada Grenchen F77 Titanium Meteorite
Relaunched by Guillaume Laidet in 2018, Nivada Grenchen is winning over watch enthusiasts with an offering that is well designed and affordably priced. This year sees a refresh of the best-selling F77 in a version that is lighter and more modern, thanks to the choice of titanium for the case and integrated bracelet. Standout features are a retro 37mm size, a well-finished rounded octagonal bezel and thick baton indexes for easy read-off. Most of all, the brand is offering an edition with a limited pre-order window whose textured meteorite dial brings even more character and makes each model unique. Also available are versions with a dial in lapis lazuli, aventurine or woven anthracite grey. This new F77 is water-resistant to 100 metres and powered by the solidly reliable Soprod P024 manual-winding Swiss-Made movement with no date. $$
Yema Superman Slim CMM.20
Yema continues to spearhead the revival of proudly French-made watches. This latest version of its iconic Superman sports watch is equipped with the automatic CMM.20 micro-rotor movement. At just 3.7mm high, this new calibre slips into a redesigned and refined 39mm case. Also new, the tapered Scales Slim bracelet completes this dive watch, which wears just as easily 300 metres underwater as it does with more formal attire. Accurate to -3/+7 sec/day (within a whisker of COSC chronometer standard) and accumulating 70 hours of power reserve, the Superman Slim provides Manufacture quality in an affordably priced watch that is instantly identifiable by its bezel lock. $$
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique
Launched in 2023, Vulcain’s Skindiver has won a solid fanbase for its retro appeal, domed dial and sapphire crystal, and 38mm diameter. This year’s orange-dial model is solidly Sixties and contrasts nicely with the black ceramic of the knurled unidirectional bezel. A steel case houses the tried and tested ETA 2824 three-hands automatic movement. Readability is enhanced by the clean dial and by a coating of white Super-LumiNova® on the hands and indexes. Water-resistant to 200 metres, the Skindiver Nautique ticks all the boxes of an affordable dive watch with a vintage feel. Also available in steel with a green dial, bronze with a black dial and gold with a midnight blue dial. $$
Oris Aquis Upcycle Edition
From its home in Hölstein, Oris returns to one of its core collections. This new Aquis features a more profiled case while the integrated bracelet has been reworked for a more ergonomic fit. The unidirectional bezel with ceramic insert has also been refined. With a water-resistance rating of 300 metres, this remains a solid dive watch. The movement inside the 45.5mm case is the in-house Calibre 400. This Upcycle Edition showcases a dial made from recycled plastic: a powerful symbol of Oris’s Change for the Better campaign and the brand’s ambitious programme to reduce its emissions. $$
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green
The L.U.C is Chopard’s classic watch par excellence. This year the collection welcomes an extra-thin model whose 40mm case is in Lucent Steel™, the brand’s exclusive alloy which comprises a minimum of 80% recycled steel. Adding a vintage touch with its forest-green colour, the dial’s softly shimmering sunburst finish contrasts with the circular finish on the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Horological excellence comes to the fore as the in-house L.U.C 96.12-L. movement – chronometer-certified by the COSC – is automatically wound by a 22K gold micro-rotor for a comfortable 65 hours of power reserve. Aesthetic refinement, technical expertise and commitment to a more sustainable industry in a single timepiece. $$$$
Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia II GMT
Since its introduction in 2002, the Teutonia has become one of Mühle-Glashütte’s best-known and best-loved collections. This year brings a GMT function, complete with an elegant forest green dial sporting sunray brushing in its centre. The time a second time zone is shown by a slim, light green baton hand sweeping a 24-hour disc with a matte surface, which sits inside the hours and minutes chapter ring. A 41mm case contrasts a satin-brushed middle section with polished finishes, such as on the bezel. The Sellita SW 330-2 automatic movement provides 56 hours of power reserve. $$
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
Marking the 70th anniversary of its Conquest collection, Longines revisits an iconic 1950s model whose unusual power reserve indicator uses two discs rotating in the centre of the dial. Measuring 38mm across, this vintage-inflected timepiece comes in three versions, with a black, champagne or grey dial. The date display at 12 o’clock adds another original touch. $$
Dior Chiffre Rouge
Twenty years after its debut, Dior’s Chiffre Rouge gets a refresh while retaining the couture details that have always distinguished this collection. Asymmetrically positioned at 4 o’clock, the red band on the crown mirrors the red of the seconds hand and of the concentric circles that surround the date display. A nod to Monsieur Dior’s lucky number, on the 8th of the month, the date digit is also highlighted in red. The dial reproduces the house’s signature “cannage” pattern. A range of eight models marks this twentieth anniversary, including a 38mm three-hand version, a tourbillon and a 41mm chronograph. $$$
Norqain Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date
Established in 2018, Norqain continues to grow with the launch of a limited-edition version of its Adventure Sport Chrono. Finished with the Norqain pattern – inspired by Swiss mountain peaks – the forest-green dial is the backdrop for three matte black subdials. The 41mm stainless steel case of this 100-piece series is topped with an 18K rose gold knurled bezel, with the addition of a black aluminium ring for a contemporary and sporty touch. Norqain’s N17 automatic chronograph movement is built on a Sellita 500W base and also displays date and day. Lots to love! $$
Junghans Telemeter Edition JF
The roots of this new release date back to 1951 and a telemeter chronograph: a rare combination which the German brand revisits inside a 40.8mm yellow gold PVD stainless steel case, paired with a black dial and a domed sapphire crystal for a neo-vintage look that is largely inspired by its illustrious predecessor. The telemeter scale in grey with red markings surrounds a fine grey minute track. The large beige hour numerals are filled with lume, adding to the vintage vibe. The movement driving this 150-piece limited edition is the automatic J880.3 which supplies 42 hours of power reserve. $$
Renaud Tixier Monday
Dominique Renaud, a pioneer of modern watchmaking and founder of the independent movement manufacturer Renaud & Papi, has revisited the fundamental principles of watchmaking alongside the young virtuoso Julien Tixier. The first in a series of seven models, the aptly named “Monday” tackles one of the central challenges of watchmaking: energy management. The first innovation is called “the dancer”, a propeller housed within the micro-rotor itself to significantly improve the efficiency of its winding and power reserve. Presented in a classic 40.8 mm rose gold case, the brand-new mechanism can be admired on the dial side at 9 o’clock on the watch’s black (sunburst or grained) face. $$$$$
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Flying Tourbillon Skeleton
Arnold & Son has unveiled a 28-piece limited edition of its Ultrathin Flying Tourbillon in a skeleton version. The new, highly refined 41.5 mm red gold case, with a thickness of 8.4 mm and the extreme skeletonised design highlight the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Radial Geneva striping on the bridges and chapter ring accentuate the visual focus on the essentials. The A&S8320 calibre is thus revealed in all its beauty, with its polished chamfers, satin-finished circular-grained wheels and blued screws. One might almost overlook the refined hours and minutes display in white opal at 12 o’clock. Completing this high-end timepiece is a 100-hour power reserve. A 28-piece limited edition is also available in platinum. $$$$$
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind
The Maison Cartier, creator of one of the first wristwatches with the Santos in 1904, has unveiled a limited series in platinum that reverses the course of time. The elegant burgundy carnelian dial of the Santos-Dumont Rewind displays its Roman numeral indices in reverse order. The hands “rewind” anti-clockwise, thanks to the manual-winding 230 MC calibre with inverted winding. This truly original yet timeless watch is available in a numbered edition of 200 pieces. $$$$
