art retro, part contemporary, the Fiftysix collection is rooted in Vacheron Constantin’s heritage.

Its inspiration is twofold: on the one hand, 1950s’ aesthetics, particularly Reference 6073 created by the Maison in 1956; on the other, the Manufacture’s Maltese cross emblem, whose outline discreetly graces several details distilled across various models in the collection. The Fiftysix aesthetic is thus at the confluence of styles and eras, expressed through multiple variations in pink gold or steel and driven by a self-winding movement in a complete calendar version or with day, date and power-reserve indication.

Harmoniously extended by lugs evoking a Maltese cross, its 40 mm round 18K 5N pink gold case frames a sector-type dial typical of watches produced in the 1950s. For the first time in the collection, it is black toned, with double finishes, opaline in the centre and sunburst on the surrounding chapter ring, offering an elegant play on light and shade with the warm shimmer of pink gold. The contrast continues with the applied 18K 5N pink gold Roman numerals, along with the hour-markers and hands coated with luminescent material ensuring enhanced legibility in the dark. The dial aesthetics are further enhanced by the box-type sapphire crystal topping the bezel, in the style of post-war watches. This retro-contemporary aesthetic is matched by an anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching.

On the reverse, the Calibre 1326 self-winding movement reveals its Côtes de Genève finishing through the sapphire crystal caseback. The pink gold oscillating weight is openworked and adorned with a Maltese cross, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking excellence for nearly 270 years.

The personality of the Fiftysix is rooted in the 1950s, the golden age of round, elegant timepieces and more specifically in Reference 6073 presented by Vacheron Constantin in 1956. The fact that this watch occupies a special place within the Maison’s heritage is because it was one of its very first timepieces to feature a self-winding movement, at a time when most were still powered by hand-wound mechanisms. In addition to its technical features ensuring precision and reliability, it also features strong character and retro elegance. Fiftysix watches borrow their streamlined design from their predecessor, reinforced by lugs whose design is inspired by the branches of the Maltese cross. Like the vintage models, they also feature a box-type crystal that dominates the bezel, a sector-type dial and harmoniously alternating Arabic numerals and baton-style hour-markers characteristic of the 1950s.

Questions to Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director, Vacheron Constantin

How did the historical context of the 1950s influence the design of Vacheron Constantin’s round watches?

“The 1950s were a period of prosperity and economic growth and Vacheron Constantin was no exception to this dynamic. After World War II, watches were distinguished by their elegance. Unlike in the early 20th century such as during the Roaring Twenties when the watch industry produced just about every shape of watch, cases were round, slim and elegant. At Vacheron Constantin, timepieces were characterised by sophistication, clean lines and harmonious proportions. In addition, technological advances had led to significant improvements in terms of accuracy and reliability, as well as the widespread use of steel and gold. The watches created by Vacheron Constantin during this decade also reflected the trends of the time, with light-coloured dials and refined finishes. Today, the aesthetics of these watches have not aged at all, consolidating their status as timeless icons.”

The Fiftysix collection claims a direct filiation with Reference 6073 from 1956. Given that the current trend is toward smaller diameters, why choose not to adopt the same vintage proportions?

“Each of our contemporary collections finds its roots and inspiration in the history of the Manufacture. Taking the example of the Patrimony collection, it too is inspired by an extremely understated model from our heritage dating back to the 1950s, yet we have chosen to interpret it in a contemporary manner while respecting its original minimalism. All our current creations are elegant and aim to achieve a certain timelessness. In the 1950s, watch sizes were slimmer and Reference 6073 was no exception with its 35 mm diameter. It is not Vacheron Constantin’s mission to reproduce the past identically, to reproduce what has already been done. In this respect, the Fiftysix collection can be defined as modern with a retro touch.”

TECHNICAL SPECIFICTIONS

Reference 4600E/000R-H101

Calibre 1326

• Manufacture calibre
• Mechanical, self-winding
• 26.2 mm (111⁄4 ’’’) diameter, 4.3 mm thick Approximately 48 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
• 142 components
• 25 jewels

Indications

• Hours, minutes, central seconds Date

Case

• 18K 5N pink gold
• 40 mm diameter, 9.6 mm thick
• Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
• Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial

• Black-toned, opaline centre, sunburst exterior
• 18K 5N pink gold Arabic numerals
• 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a blue luminescent material

Strap

• Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining and ecru stitching

Buckle

• 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle Polished half Maltese cross-shaped