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JUBILEE COLLECTION

Designed as a sparkling tribute to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 180 years distinguished by a unique spirit of innovation, the ”Tribute to Antoine LeCoultre” Jubilee Collection offers three watches featuring distinctive characteristics highlighting three fundamental fields of expertise cultivated by the Manufacture: absolute innovation in the field of Grandes Complications, with the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch; perfect execution dedicated to serving performance, with the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee; and pure performance within the framework of particularly demanding constraints, with the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, one of the thinnest mechanical manually-wound movements in the world.

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GYROTOURBILLON 3 JUBILEE

2013, the jubilee year, sees the arrival of the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch. The third Grande Complication model to be equipped with a Gyrotourbillon movement, it boasts two world-first achievements: a new balance-spring that is no longer “only” cylindrical, but spherical; and the first time that a Grande Complication model is equipped with an instant digital-display chronograph controlled by a single push-piece!
The cylindrical balance-spring in the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 watch was already a major feat both in technical terms and because of the workmanship it involves. However, the new and unprecedented spherical balance-spring used in the Gyrotourbillon 3 movement embodies an authentic performance. It is an unprecedented technical accomplishment that required over two years of development. And when one considers that two full days are required to make a single spherical balance-spring, that gives a better idea of the extreme difficulty of the task that calls for unique expertise exclusively developed by the Manufacture. Crafting it involves progressive coiling of the spring around a metal sphere that will give it the required shape. Yet the whole difficulty then lies in removing the cylindrical balance-spring from the sphere without touching or spoiling the shape of the coils themselves… Equipped with two terminal curves ensuring perfectly concentric and regular “breathing”, it guarantees exceptional performance, comparable to that of the cylindrical balance-spring, while also putting on a spectacular show. Blued to accentuate its beauty, it is fixed to the centre of a 14-carat gold balance-wheel that is also given the same hue by means of a very special treatment. Gold is first PVD-coated with a thin (less than 5-micron) layer of iron that is then oxidised in a kiln to create its remarkable colour.
The blued balance-spring and balance-wheel enliven the double spherical carriage of the Gyrotourbillon 3 movement. The two carriages are made from a new type of aluminium. While the great advantage of aluminium lies in its extreme lightness and the performance of a tourbillon is directly influenced by the lightness of its carriage, it is also a metal that only dimly reflects light in darkened surroundings. To eliminate this flaw, a new procedure has been developed using a PVD treatment to coat the aluminium with a very fine layer of palladium, followed by a galvanic treatment that adds a layer of rhodium – resulting in unprecedented brilliance. The appealing visual effect is further accentuated by the transparent context within which it is positioned. In the absence of a bridge, this flying Gyrotourbillon 3 movement creates the impression of being suspended in mid-air and of rotating in an apparently weightless state.

The second feature of this Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch is its instantaneous digital-display chronograph function – a first in the field of Grande Complication models. The minutes are displayed in a broad aperture (4.5 x 3 mm) on two instant-jump discs: one for the units and the other for the tens. The aperture appears inside a subdial at 9 o’clock indicating the chronograph seconds. Above it, one can clearly see the integrated column-wheel chronograph governing the chronograph function. Its activation and the starting, stopping and resetting of the digital chronograph functions are all controlled via a single push-piece at 2 o’clock. Meanwhile, a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock orbits inside a circular 24-hour graduated scale. On the upper level, above the Gyrotourbillon 3 movement, two blued hands indicate the hours and minutes on an opaline dial.
All these indications and functions are harmoniously and legibly accommodated inside a case that is just 15.5 mm thick and 43.5 mm in diameter. Directly inspired by the grand historical tradition of pocket-watches from the Manufacture, this case made from extra-white 950 platinum (950o/oo platinum and 50o/oo ruthenium) clearly belongs to the Master Control line, but has been rethought in all its details so as to endow it with an even higher degree of aesthetic refinement. Its bezel has been slimmed down and its curves are accentuated. Its sides are satin-brushed and its bezel and lugs are polished. The same decorative care has been lavished on making its movement. Inspired by a movement made by Jacques-David LeCoultre in 1898, this new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 176 (21,600 vibrations per hour, 50-hour power-reserve) is made from nickel silver. Its bridges and mainplate are hand-hammered – a long and accurate process calling for expertise and dexterity and conducted in harmony with the highest traditional watchmaking criteria.

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION TOURBILLON CYLINDRIQUE À QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL JUBILEE

In 1889, at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, Jaeger-LeCoultre (known at the time as the Manufacture LeCoultre) was awarded a gold medal. The latter rewarded the company “for the use of cutting-edge equipment and the impeccable production of its complicated calibres, chronographs and repeaters”.
A reproduction of this finely engraved gold medal appears on the oscillating weight of the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. It thereby serves as a vivid reminder of the pioneering role played by the Manufacture, as well as symbolically reaffirming the extraordinary continuity of this innovative spirit that has been its driving force throughout its 180 years of watchmaking history.
This new watch is the perfect epitome of this proud heritage. Directly inspired by the splendid pocket-watches made by the Manufacture in the late 19th century, it now appears in a new 42 mm-diameter, 13.1 mm thick case made of extra-white 950 platinum.
The slimmer bezel provides an optimally broad scope for its extremely classic grained silver-toned dial: a slender traditional minute circle, baton-shaped hour-markers, a date subdial at 9 o’clock, month and year subdial at 12 o’clock, and a day subdial surrounding the moon phase at 3 o’clock. All these indications are clearly and easily readable above the tourbillon revealed at 6 o’clock. The latter is a flying tourbillon, meaning without any upper bridge, a feature that endows it with exceptional transparency and depth. This transparency enables an unobstructed view of the extraordinary beating of the rare cylindrical balance-spring at its heart. Nonetheless, however refined and subtle, this is merely the visual expression of a greater technical reality.
Thanks to its perfectly isochronous development ensured by its two terminal curves, this cylindrical balance-spring that entails an extremely complex production process ensures the high-precision rating of the new automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 equipping this Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Despite its technically innovative nature, the classic and beautifully balanced appearance of this timepiece makes it look as if it has quite simply always existed.

MASTER ULTRA THIN JUBILEE

In 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed LeCoultre Calibre 145. At just 1.38 mm thick, it is still the thinnest mechanism ever made by the Manufacture. Although produced right through to the 1960s, this movement was manufactured in a total run of only 400 – eloquently illustrating the complexity of the task it represents.
To mark its 180th anniversary, it was entirely natural for Jaeger-LeCoultre to celebrate in a special way its pioneering role in the field of ultra-thin watches and movements. As thin as a knife-blade, the water-resistant case of the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee watch is just 4.05 mm thick and 39 mm in diameter. Inside it beats manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 849. Composed of 123 parts and measuring 1.85 mm thick, the latter is equipped with a bridge-free barrel and an extremely small escapement. It is thus one of the world’s thinnest movements and above all, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it has consistently demonstrated exceptional rating qualities and excellent reliability since 1994. Its assembly, adjustment and extremely fine rating also call for particular care.
This exceptional movement is given a new showcase in the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee watch made of extra-white 950 platinum. Radiating absolute stylistic purity, the watch features an immaculate grained silver-toned dial bearing slender and elegant baton-shaped hour-markers swept over by two slim baton-shaped hands. Beneath the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, the transferred date “1833” offers a discreet reminder of the founding date of the Manufacture.

MASTER ULTRA THIN

Focusing intensely on purity, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking slenderness in a tireless quest for absolute excellence: such is the ultimate aim of the Master Ultra Thin collection. This apparent simplicity calls for peerless horological and technical mastery.

MASTER ULTRA THIN PERPETUAL

The new Master Ultra Thin Perpetual epitomises the essence of watchmaking elegance by offering the ultimately refined expression of one of the most traditional complex functions: the perpetual calendar. Its pure and perfectly balanced dial ideally mirrors this pursuit of the absolute in watchmaking. The three month, day and date displays are arranged to ensure harmony and optimal readability. They are topped by an impeccably classic moon-phase indication. A discreet aperture at 7.30 reveals the additional year indication. The surface reveals no hint of the extreme complexity embodied in the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868. Housed inside an extremely elegant new case measuring just 9.2 mm thick and 39 mm in diameter, this automatic movement drives these indications with incomparable reliability.
The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual watch is available in 18-carat white gold with a grained silver-toned dial, or in an 18-carat pink gold version with an eggshell-white dial – both fitted with an alligator leather strap.

MASTER ULTRA THIN 41

The Master Ultra Thin 41 watch (named after its 41 mm diameter) is undoubtedly the purest embodiment of the philosophy behind the Ultra Thin collection.
Its new 7.48 mm thick case forms a perfect circle, extended by slender and subtle lugs and framing a dial entirely free of any superfluous ornamentation. In this model, the sole ornament is time itself, soberly indicated by two dauphine hands sweeping around a beautifully clear eggshell-white dial in the 18-carat gold version, or a sunburst silver-toned face in the stainless steel version.
It is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898C, a mechanical automatic movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and guaranteeing a 43-hour power-reserve.

MASTER CONTROL

The pure, timeless style of a grand classic, faithfully conveying the technical performance, the reliability and the diversity of the useful horological functions developed by the Manufacture. The Master Control collection, of which the “1000 Hours Control” movements incorporate the latest technical innovations from Jaeger-LeCoultre, combine efficiency, reliability and timeless elegance.

MASTER TOURBILLON DUALTIME

Created in 2006, the tourbillon movement of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978 became a legend by winning the 2009 International Chronometry Competition. While the same calibre powers the new Master Tourbillon Dualtime watch, the architecture of its tourbillon carriage has been entirely rethought with tauter, purer lines providing a broad and luminous view of the rotations of the tourbillon. Its 18-carat pink gold case (41.5 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick) has been redesigned in the same spirit of maximum openness. Its slimmer bezel with its softer lines and slender lugs ensures plentiful breathing space for the sunburst silver-toned dial featuring a well-ordered lay-out: a pointer-type date display on a graduated scale; a traditional minute circle; along with a 24-hour dual time-zone display in the upper central area.
This model is the epitome of self-evident style, prefiguring the new aesthetic of the complication models in the Master Control line.

MASTER CALENDAR

With its essential indications – hour, minute, date, day, month, small seconds and moon phase – the Master Calendar watch is one of the absolute icons in the Master Control collection. Perfectly embodying a watchmaking philosophy eager to marry mechanical relevance, readability and elegance, it has been redesigned according to the new aesthetic codes governing the Master Control line. Its slimmer bezel accentuates the purity of its sunburst silver-toned dial. Its finer lugs endow it with an aura of distinction, and its smaller dimensions (10.6 mm thick combined with a discreet and nicely balanced 39 mm diameter) are the quintessence of simple elegance. Crafted in 18-carat pink gold or stainless steel, it is steadily and reliably driven by automatic-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 866.

RENDEZ-VOUS

While the name Rendez-Vous is a nod to the variety of elements that are the spice of life, such as encounters, friendships and romance, it also evokes the rendezvous between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie. Under the distinguished auspices of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, the nobility of traditional watchmaking is interpreted in a resolutely feminine mode.

Outward beauty and inner beauty, the former faithfully reflecting the latter, meet and mingle in the ultra-feminine Rendez-Vous collection. A collection that is now further enriched to offer women with a penchant for fine watchmaking a complete line of precious timepieces – ranging from the most classic models to Grande Complication creations and the expression of rare crafts.
This collection of round watches is designed in harmony with the style precepts of Art Deco. The dials are adorned with rounded structures layered over several levels, along with subtle guilloché motifs, mother-of-pearl marquetry and beaded minute circles. Nonetheless, this rich historical legacy gives rise to an entirely contemporary style radiating from the Rendez-Vous line. The display of the time and the functions remains eminently legible, while the remarkably gentle and yet distinctive graphic design of the numerals endows them with an easily recognisable identity.
This outward sophistication and elegance, consistently enhanced by a setting of diamonds, reflect the inner beauty of a line that seeks to satisfy a growing number of women attentive to the grand watchmaking traditions. Apart from one model, Rendez-Vous is a line exclusively equipped with mechanical automatic movements that are some of the slimmest, smallest and most precious of the many movements developed by the Manufacture. Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal back of the watch, finished and decorated in the finest horological tradition, their somewhat secretive inner beauty is exquisitely matched by the outward radiance of these Rendez-Vous watches.

RENDEZ-VOUS CELESTIAL

A deep and intensely blue sky, representing and indicating the path of the constellations of the northern hemisphere, the zodiac signs and the months, now orbits with extreme precision on the guilloché lapis lazuli dial of the Rendez-Vous Celestial watch.
Hovering above this sky and standing out against a subtly guilloché base composed of tiny blue waves, the applied numerals characteristic of all Rendez-Vous watches are arranged in a crescent shape. A mysterious star-shaped hand sweeps over these hours, delicately indicating the time chosen for an upcoming rendezvous. This romantic star is adjustable via a crown set with an inverted diamond at 2 o’clock. Running around this subtly layered dial is a row of diamonds set on the bezel and flowing onto the slender lugs of the 18-carat white gold 37.5 mm-diameter case.
Driven by automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 809, the Rendez-Vous Celestial radiates an enchanting beauty.
A magic born from the encounter between a subtle mechanical complication and the splendour of the constellations. A watch epitomising the encounter between refined watchmaking and romantic elegance.

RENDEZ-VOUS DATE BICOLOR

The Rendez-Vous Date watch adopts a new face this year with this two-tone interpretation mingling 18-carat pink gold and stainless steel, thus providing a demonstration of its extremely versatile character. It adapts smoothly and easily to all daytime situations, while also attuning itself to the magic of glamorous evenings. Whether sunny by day or sparkling by night with its slender crown set with brilliant-cut diamonds, it is the ideal companion for any rendezvous.
Its dial is graced with golden hour numerals featuring a subtle Art Deco inspired graphic design. They stand out against a background adorned with a delicately guilloché motif of sunbeams that are even finer on the central disc. The latter has a cut-out section at the base designed to make room for the date display appearing at 6 o’clock.
The solid caseback is engraved with motifs also evoking the sun and its rays or a star-studded sky, surrounded by a slender graduated scale symbolically connecting the celestial movements to the measurement of time. The Rendez-Vous Date Bicolor watch is driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre quartz Calibre 688. Its subtle and slender 34 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 3 bar.

RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY

First presented in 2012, this year the Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch appears in shining new apparel. Its 18-carat pink gold 36 mm-diameter case is delicately set with diamonds running around the bezel and smoothly accentuating the lower section of the case middle and the gentle profile of the lugs.
On its dial, the central disc rimmed by a delicate line of very fine diamonds is softly cut-out to reveal a semi-circular display that gives the Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch its name. It shows the passing indication of night and day through a delightfully lyrical motif revolving over a full 24 hours and alternately composed of a sun and then a moon against a star-studded background. These subtly stylised motifs echo the applied numerals on the dial, with a typography that has been subtly redesigned to enhance both their readability and their aesthetic appeal. Driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898A, a mechanical automatic movement comprising 204 parts, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and endowed with a 43-hour power-reserve, the Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch is as quintessentially horological as it is exquisitely feminine.

Echoing the 2009 encounter between Diane Kruger and the Manufacture, the Rendez-Vous collection pays eloquent tribute to the personality of this stellar actress. Her innate grace, her cosmopolitan spirit and her choices inspired the feminine world of Jaeger-LeCoultre. A world with no compromises, in which beauty and refinement are expressed through each beat of the mechanisms driving its creations. Ballerina, fashion model, actress, and quite simply a woman, Diane Kruger has always managed to conduct every moment of her life with self-assured determination, perpetually reinventing herself while losing nothing of her natural finesse and elegance. The same can be said for the feminine creations that continue to forge the legend of Jaeger-LeCoultre and testify to the brand’s amazing creative liberty.

REVERSO

The Reverso, a cult-watch notably famous for the countless interpretations made possible by its legendary swivel case, requires no introduction. Among these expressions, there is one that splendidly epitomises the versatile and ever-changing nature of this watch that adapts so beautifully to all the various “times” of daily existence: the feminine Reverso Duetto and the masculine Reverso Duo. These twin-faced, twin-time watches are now making their grand entrance into the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin line.

GRANDE REVERSO LADY ULTRA THIN DUETTO DUO

Invented in 1997, the Duetto concept gives two different faces to a single watch. But above and beyond these amazing expressive possibilities, it also represents an authentic horological performance when one considers that in addition to the two faces, two different times – thus two different time zones –may be displayed on either side by a single movement and adjusted via a single crown. This year, this magnificent horological and aesthetic concept is applied for the first time to the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin line. Launched in 2011, this supremely slender and classically elegant line provides a perfectly proportioned 8.8 mm showcase for these truly unique twin faces.
The daytime side of the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin Duetto Duo offers a classically balanced contemporary face. Around its silver-toned dial, the twelve stamped hour numerals shine brightly against a sunburst guilloché background. In the centre, a cartouche surrounded by a slender beaded motif further underscores the strength of this supremely pure radiant motif. The night-time face offers a striking contrast. At the centre sits a mother-of-pearl disc simply bearing the number 12, surrounded by a splendid radiating mother-of-pearl marquetry pattern that displays Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery in the field of rare professions. Three mother-of-pearl colours form subtly graded shades of pale pink – in the 18-carat pink gold version of the watch – or grey in the stainless steel version. The precious character of this nocturnal face is further emphasised by two rows of diamonds set at the top and bottom of the swivel case. Fitted with an alligator leather strap, the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin Duetto Duo watch is driven by a single mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 865, derived from the famous Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854 that gave rise to the Reverso Duo watch.

GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN DUO

Developed in 1994 and composed of 180 parts, the rectangular-shaped, 3.8 mm thick mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854 is now famous. It is indeed the only movement capable of driving two different hour and minute indications, positioned back to back and thus turning in two different directions. This outstanding horological achievement has enabled the creation of the Reverso Duo which, in accordance with the collection’s signature characteristics, is a watch displaying a different time zone on either side of its reversible case.
An evolved version of this movement, Calibre 854/1, made it possible to create the new Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duo watch. The new ultra-thin case housing it features undeniably elegant proportions: 46.8 mm long, 27.4 mm wide and just 9.15 mm thick (or rather thin). Admirably connecting yesterday – 1931, the birth date of the Reverso – with today, it features two faces each inspired by separate historical models that it combines within its unique swivel case. In addition, it enriches the grand watchmaking tradition with eminently contemporary new dimensions, slenderness and technical sophistication.
On one side, it offers a satin-brushed velvet-finish silver-toned dial on the stainless steel model, or an opaline silver-toned version for the 18-carat pink gold version. This face displays the traditional Reverso minute track and a small seconds display surrounded by its own rectangular minute track.
On the other, it displays a second time-zone complete with a 24-hour day/night indicator featuring graduated circles standing out against a black velvet-finish background with a guilloché Clous de Paris pattern. A push-piece subtly recessed into the caseband serves to adjust the time zone in one-hour increments. Understated, faithful to the stylistic codes of its lineage, focused on essentials and profoundly horological, the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duo boldly reaffirms the iconic stature of the Reverso watch.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE DEEP SEA

The story of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea line is an epic adventure. In 1959, already in the vanguard of technology and innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Memovox Deep Sea, the first automatic diver’s watch to be equipped with a mechanical alarm. The Manufacture did not merely adorn the dial with a few maritime references, but instead developed a watch entirely designed to meet divers’ expectations. This achievement was exceptional for the time thanks to the acoustic indication designed to warn divers of the moment they should begin their progressive ascent to the surface. In 2012, this legendary model was equipped with a chronograph function; and this year, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph appears clad in a new alloy: reinforced cermet.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE DEEP SEA CHRONOGRAPH CERMET

As its name implies, cermet is a ceramic and metal composite material. It is widely used in the world of aeronautics, in racing car engines, and for certain electronic components. It boasts several key assets: its lightness (33% lighter than titanium), its ruggedness (it is more shock-resistant than ceramics), its comfort on the wrist, its ability to withstand scratches and heat, as well as its impressive durability. Cermet is made by incorporating ceramic microspheres into an aluminium base. This operation results in a block from which the case is machined. The latter is then coated, by means of a thermal treatment known as ceramisation, with a 40-micron protective layer.
The case of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet diver’s watch measures 44 mm in diameter and is faithful to the design of the original model. Fitted with a waterproof Trieste leather strap, the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar. It is also equipped with a rotating bezel. A frogman surrounded by bubbles is engraved on the reinforced cermet caseback. White superluminova-enhanced hour-markers and three chronograph counters stand out against its black dial.
On the dial of the watch, below the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, a round aperture is dedicated to the chronograph operating indicator. It is composed of two discs – one white and the other red – which provide the necessary information regarding the state of the chronograph, and do so without any risk of error. When the display is white, the chronograph is ready to be activated in order to begin measuring a given time. Once the chronograph has started, the indicator window simultaneously shows both the red and white colours in order to signal the fact that a measurement is in progress. Finally, once the chronograph is stopped, the red disc appears alone in the window to indicate that the measurement performed may now be consulted before the chronograph is reset. This specific feature is inspired by an historical accomplishment by Jaeger-LeCoultre: the chronoflight, an onboard instrument invented in the 1930s.
At the heart of this ultra-sturdy case beats Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 758: a mechanical automatic movement boasting tried and tested reliability. Beating at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it has a 65-hour power-reserve.

Source: Europa Star / February - March 2013